keeping in tradition of answering my own questions, I came up with
this solution but I don't like it much because it's more code. I use
jquery because its supposed to be less code :)

$('.toggler').click(function(){
   $(this).toggleClass('open');
   $(this).attr('class')=='expander' ? $(this).attr('class','open') : $
(this).attr('class','expander');
}

So the question still stands: any ideas on how to get this effect
going more elegantly?

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