I just had to jump in and say I have a beautiful 1985 kr-2 that got it's AWC 
with a VW and later I mounted a Corvair and it was a flop. Now it sit's and 
wait's for the latest greatest engine to come along. "Bummer"
--------------------------------------------
On Fri, 6/24/16, krnet-request at list.krnet.org <krnet-request at 
list.krnet.org> wrote:

 Subject: KRnet Digest, Vol 4, Issue 165
 To: krnet at list.krnet.org
 Date: Friday, June 24, 2016, 11:00 AM

 Send KRnet mailing list submissions
 to
 ??? krnet at list.krnet.org

 To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
 ??? http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help'
 to
 ??? krnet-request at list.krnet.org

 You can reach the person managing the list at
 ??? krnet-owner at list.krnet.org

 When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more
 specific
 than "Re: Contents of KRnet digest..."


 Today's Topics:

 ???1. Re:? VW Engines (Kayak Chris)
 ???2. Re:? VW Engines (Kayak Chris)
 ???3. Re:? Revmaster R3000 (Dj Merrill)
 ???4. Re:? VW Engines (Bill Jacobs)
 ???5. Re:? VW Engines (Pete Klapp)
 ???6. Re:? VW Engines (n357cj)
 ???7. Re:? Axles? (Matt Quimby)
 ???8.? R-3000 (laser147 at juno.com)
 ???9. Re:? VW Engines (Larry Flesner)
 ? 10. Re:? VW Engines (n357cj)
 ? 11. Re:? VW Engines (Alastair Hawkins)
 ? 12. Re:? VW heads (Mark Langford)
 ? 13. Re:? Revmaster R3000 (Phillip Hill)
 ? 14.? Revmaster R2300 and R3000 info (Kayak
 Chris)
 ? 15. Re:? VW Engines (Phillip Hill)
 ? 16. Re:? VW Engines (Kayak Chris)
 ? 17. Re:? VW Engines - hub removal (Mark
 Langford)
 ? 18. Re:? VW Engines (Patrick Driscoll)
 ? 19.? painting update. (Mike Sylvester)
 ? 20. Re:? Cable safe (Daniel Heath)
 ? 21. Re:? painting update. (ml at n56ml.com)
 ? 22.? painting update (Mike Sylvester)
 ? 23. Re:? VW Engines (Tommy Waymack)
 ? 24. Re:? VW Engines (Chris Gardiner)


 ----------------------------------------------------------------------

 Message: 1
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 12:39:31 -0400
 From: Kayak Chris <kayak1176 at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ???
 <CAF6k7fSREpqeBZhEL92EYzYm3gTSwwVEfcDWL=_VmAex7=cEWQ at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 how does a corvair engine get "run without a front bearing"
 and does
 this mean front main crank bearing, or some other bearing
 outboard of
 the case?

  Too bad the "soon to be officially mine" Corvair powered KR
 has taken to
 >> circulating the better part of the cam gear teeth
 throughout the engine?
 >
 > That sounds like an engine that was run without a front
 bearing for some
 > period of time.



 ------------------------------

 Message: 2
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 12:43:14 -0400
 From: Kayak Chris <kayak1176 at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ??? <CAF6k7fSh6hsh8YKBcpavuLWmdhJHVzAoa9EQJtcEqU8eqwKbig at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 Well this set of comments would have me steer well clear of
 GPASC
 engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated and
 assembled,
 it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not very
 serviceable
 down the line.

 After all these years how can this not been resolved?
 Presumably the
 revmaster solution is more certain in service and
 serviceability.


  Having built one of these several times, I'm not
 > a fan of the keyway setup.? The slots are in hub
 and crank are shallow, and
 > the key is provided as a square key that you need to
 grind (or mill) down to
 > something way thinner to fit between hub and crank.
 Getting a good fit with
 > maximum material is trial and error. The key is only
 there to ensure the
 > timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed.?
 The taper is where the
 > power is transferred.
 >
 > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances
 on the angle.? The hub
 > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a
 two-hour chore by hand.
 >
 > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank
 and bearing are sold
 > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing
 crank is iffy.? I've
 > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun,
 then when I torqued
 > it to 14 the crank seized.? No amount of refitting
 cured that one.???I'm not
 > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads.
 Revmaster's is .75" LH
 > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better
 connection. Otherwise, a
 > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite
 proper torque and
 > Loctite 620 on the bolt? threads.
 >
 > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going
 to come off without
 > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the
 seals, and hope the
 > next seals work better.? My luck with those seals
 has not been good either.
 > That's the only place my engine has lost oil.



 ------------------------------

 Message: 3
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 13:04:57 -0400
 From: Dj Merrill <deej at deej.net>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> Revmaster R3000
 Message-ID: <eaba0371-526f-1174-4c87-df0ceda06eec at deej.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252

 On 06/22/2016 10:14 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
 > wow, that R3000 is interesting!
 > 
 >> > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5

 That issue is from 2012.???What ever happened
 with the R3000?? I don't
 see any mention of it on their website:

 http://revmasteraviation.com/

 -Dj

 -- 
 Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
 Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
 Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/



 ------------------------------

 Message: 4
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:44:43 +0000 (UTC)
 From: Bill Jacobs <billjacobs386 at yahoo.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ??? <1799902062.374730.1466703883317.JavaMail.yahoo at mail.yahoo.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 There are a couple of versions of an additional front
 mounted bearing.
 It's called a 5th bearing, BTA, (better than air), etc. Go
 to flycorvair.net or Dan Wesemans Fly with? SPA. Or google
 Corvallis 5th bearing.?Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl. 

 ? ? On Thursday, June 23, 2016 12:44 PM, Kayak
 Chris via KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:


  Well this set of comments would have me steer well clear of
 GPASC
 engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated and
 assembled,
 it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not very
 serviceable
 down the line.

 After all these years how can this not been resolved?
 Presumably the
 revmaster solution is more certain in service and
 serviceability.


  Having built one of these several times, I'm not
 > a fan of the keyway setup.? The slots are in hub and
 crank are shallow, and
 > the key is provided as a square key that you need to
 grind (or mill) down to
 > something way thinner to fit between hub and crank.
 Getting a good fit with
 > maximum material is trial and error. The key is only
 there to ensure the
 > timing mark stays constant if the hub is removed.? The
 taper is where the
 > power is transferred.
 >
 > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to tolerances
 on the angle.? The hub
 > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is a
 two-hour chore by hand.
 >
 > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The crank
 and bearing are sold
 > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an existing
 crank is iffy.? I've
 > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still spun,
 then when I torqued
 > it to 14 the crank seized.? No amount of refitting
 cured that one.? I'm not
 > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads.
 Revmaster's is .75" LH
 > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better
 connection. Otherwise, a
 > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop, despite
 proper torque and
 > Loctite 620 on the bolt? threads.
 >
 > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't going
 to come off without
 > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace the
 seals, and hope the
 > next seals work better.? My luck with those seals has
 not been good either.
 > That's the only place my engine has lost oil.

 _______________________________________________
 Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options


 ? 

 ------------------------------

 Message: 5
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 13:57:01 -0400
 From: Pete Klapp <pkengr at hotmail.com>
 To: "krnet at list.krnet.org"
 <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID: <BAY169-W927980B48D7DF71C6CCEB1CA2D0 at phx.gbl>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"




 Chris
 Check out Roy Szarafinski's Fifth Bearing at roysgarage.com
 in Osseo, Michigan.Pete Klapp, building N729PK,Canton, Ohio

 > Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:44:43 +0000
 > To: krnet at list.krnet.org
 > Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 > From: krnet at list.krnet.org
 > CC: billjacobs386 at yahoo.com
 > 
 > There are a couple of versions of an additional front
 mounted bearing.
 > It's called a 5th bearing, BTA, (better than air), etc.
 Go to flycorvair.net or Dan Wesemans Fly with? SPA. Or
 google Corvallis 5th bearing. Bill Jacobs Daytona Beach, Fl.

 > 
 >? ???On Thursday, June 23, 2016
 12:44 PM, Kayak Chris via KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:
 >? 
 > 
 >? Well this set of comments would have me steer
 well clear of GPASC
 > engine. Even if they are reliable when properly mated
 and assembled,
 > it sounds like their crankshaft/hub solution is not
 very serviceable
 > down the line.
 > 
 > After all these years how can this not been resolved?
 Presumably the
 > revmaster solution is more certain in service and
 serviceability.
 > 
 > 
 >? Having built one of these several times, I'm not
 > > a fan of the keyway setup.? The slots are in
 hub and crank are shallow, and
 > > the key is provided as a square key that you need
 to grind (or mill) down to
 > > something way thinner to fit between hub and
 crank. Getting a good fit with
 > > maximum material is trial and error. The key is
 only there to ensure the
 > > timing mark stays constant if the hub is
 removed.? The taper is where the
 > > power is transferred.
 > >
 > > Crank and hub are also matched sets due to
 tolerances on the angle.? The hub
 > > still needs to be lapped onto the crank, which is
 a two-hour chore by hand.
 > >
 > > The hub/bearing clearance is not consistent. The
 crank and bearing are sold
 > > as a set, and getting a new bearing for an
 existing crank is iffy.? I've
 > > torqued the case to 8 ft-lbs and the crank still
 spun, then when I torqued
 > > it to 14 the crank seized.? No amount of
 refitting cured that one.? I'm not
 > > a great fan of the prop bolt...1/2" RH threads.
 Revmaster's is .75" LH
 > > threads, which can be torqued higher for a better
 connection. Otherwise, a
 > > simple engine backfire can unscrew the prop,
 despite proper torque and
 > > Loctite 620 on the bolt? threads.
 > >
 > > If the crankshaft's oil seal leaks, the hub isn't
 going to come off without
 > > a 20 ton press, so tear the engine down to replace
 the seals, and hope the
 > > next seals work better.? My luck with those
 seals has not been good either.
 > > That's the only place my engine has lost oil.
 > 
 > _______________________________________________
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options
 > 
 > 
 >???
 > _______________________________________________
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options

  ???
 ????????
 ?????? ???
 ? 

 ------------------------------

 Message: 6
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 14:05:26 -0400 (EDT)
 From: n357cj <n357cj at ptd.net>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID: <635635597.9962358.1466705126829.JavaMail.zimbra at ptd.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8

 This should really have read " without a 5th bearing".
 I'm one of the guys that had a failure of the alum. cam gear
 at just over 250 hours without the 5th bearing. Ironically
 there was no 5th bearing readily available at the time and
 my plane was scheduled to have the prototype installed after
 the trip that it failed on. I try to remind everyone at
 every chance I get that the crankshaft is not the only point
 of failure that has an impact from the use of a fifth
 bearing. The cam gear is a slow developing failure that oil
 analysis if likely the only way to detect. But trust me on
 this one when the cam gear fails the engine gets every bit
 as quite as when it is sleeping in the hanger.
 ?? I currently have about 650 hours on the prototype BTA. I
 will probably take the engine apart in the next couple
 months and if Dan wants to examine it I would return it to
 him to check out (although we have not talked about it yet)
 So to anyone that will listen ... put the dang 5th bearing
 on the corvair. Roy's or Dan's doesn't matter to me.. just
 do it.
 Joe Horton
 N357CJ


 ----- Original Message -----
 From: "Kayak Chris via KRnet" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 To: "KRnet" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Cc: "Kayak Chris" <kayak1176 at gmail.com>
 Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 12:39:31 PM
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines

 how does a corvair engine get "run without a front bearing"
 and does
 this mean front main crank bearing, or some other bearing
 outboard of
 the case?

 ?Too bad the "soon to be officially mine" Corvair powered KR
 has taken to
 >> circulating the better part of the cam gear teeth
 throughout the engine?
 >
 > That sounds like an engine that was run without a front
 bearing for some
 > period of time.

 _______________________________________________
 Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options



 ------------------------------

 Message: 7
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 14:17:06 -0400
 From: Matt Quimby <crazymonkey16 at ptd.net>
 To: krnet at list.krnet.org
 Subject: Re: KR> Axles?
 Message-ID: <19AFCC64-6B76-4CA8-B7E9-E6383CF71C71 at ptd.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain;???
 charset=windows-1252


 On Jun 23, 2016, at 12:00 , krnet-request at list.krnet.org
 wrote:

 > Tommy Waymack wrote:
 > 
 >> May need to upgrade to 3/4"axles and bearings.
 GPASC can help
 >? 
 > Mark Langford wrote:
 > 
 > I second this motion.? When I bought 891JF the
 wheels were splayed out
 > several degrees in both camber and toe-out.? I'm
 not sure what kind of
 > steel those 5/8" axles were made of, but they were
 quite soft and easily
 > bent, and not up to the job of landing a 1000 pound
 plane, apparently. 
 > Fortunately those went away when I went to Matcos,
 which use the 1.25"
 > aluminum axles that are virtually bulletproof (tested
 to 5.5 g's, at
 > least)
 > .

 Thanks, all. I made a template based on the O?Keefe axles
 (where GPASC redirects their axles, brakes, and bearings)
 and I have one concern? the O?Keefe axle plate is a 2.5?
 square, with mounting holes spaced at 1.75?. When I line
 that template up with my landing gear bracket, the two lower
 holes are completely off the bracket. Are we just drilling
 two new holes closer to the axle and grinding away the
 material that doesn?t contact anything? Thanks again.
 -Matt

 ------------------------------

 Message: 8
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 12:33:49 -0700
 From: <laser147 at juno.com>
 To: krnet at list.krnet.org
 Subject: KR> R-3000
 Message-ID: <AABMY2QRGAQXHVA2 at smtpout02.vgs.untd.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

 wow, that R3000 is interesting!

 > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5

 Calm down Chris.? That's way too much engine for your
 KR-1.? They pull
 700 HP out of that motor (for ten seconds at a time).

 I agree though . . . it's an impressive bit of kit.


 ____________________________________________________________
 Affordable Wireless Plans
 Set up is easy. Get online in minutes.
 Starting at only $9.95 per month! 
 www.netzero.net?refcd=nzmem0216



 ------------------------------

 Message: 9
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 15:50:38 -0500
 From: Larry Flesner <flesner at frontier.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ??? <20160623205047.DDB0165E17 at filter03.dlls.pa.frontiernet.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed


 >? I will probably take the engine apart in the next
 couple months 
 > and if Dan wants to examine it I would return it to him
 to check out
 >Joe Horton N357CJ -----

 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 Not before the Gathering, I hope, unless you suspect
 problems.? Play 
 safe............

 Larry Flesner




 ------------------------------

 Message: 10
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:29:24 -0400 (EDT)
 From: n357cj <n357cj at ptd.net>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID: <296029740.10076565.1466717364599.JavaMail.zimbra at ptd.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1

 Just an pesky known issue ... I have the Harley-Davidson of
 the air. It marks it's spot where ever I park. I have
 decided that it is a defect in the block somewhere that the
 oil is leaking from. It has been doing it for years and I am
 just sick of it so i am replacing the block. it isn't a lot
 in the scheme of things, about a quart every 15 hours. But
 it sure makes a mess.
 I am currently preping the new block and making sure i have
 every part ready. I also have Roy making a CNC part for me
 to clean up my installation a bit. I might do it between OSH
 and the Gathering. I am certain that I can take the engine
 off on a Friday after work and have it back on the plane by
 sunday afternoon... So no problem to make it to the
 Gathering.
 Joe

 ----- Original Message -----
 From: "Larry Flesner via KRnet" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 To: "KRnet" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Cc: "Larry Flesner" <flesner at frontier.com>
 Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2016 4:50:38 PM
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines

 >? I will probably take the engine apart in the next
 couple months 
 > and if Dan wants to examine it I would return it to him
 to check out
 >Joe Horton N357CJ -----

 
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++

 Not before the Gathering, I hope, unless you suspect
 problems.? Play 
 safe............

 Larry Flesner


 _______________________________________________
 Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options



 ------------------------------

 Message: 11
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 14:53:17 -0700
 From: Alastair Hawkins <a_hawkins at telus.net>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID: <576C5A4D.1020903 at telus.net>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252;
 format=flowed

 I have removed the Force one hub by making a specialized
 puller.

 You copy the hub bolt pattern into a 1/4"thick steel sheet.
 Remove the prop bolt and hub? washer.
 Take a socket and install the bolt thru it into the hub,
 then add 
 another socket so that it sticks out the front of the hub a
 1/4".
 For the 2nd socket I used the one used to remove the prop
 hub bolt.
 Install the plate over the socket, adding 6 bolts thru to
 hub, tighten 
 them up to about 50 foot pounds each, make sure to tighten
 them evenly.
 Then hit the plate in the center with a hammer, the hub will
 pop off and 
 will be prevented from falling on the floor by the hub
 bolt.

 I have used this technique twice to remove the hub.

 Al Hawkins
 KR2
 Port Coquitlam BC.
 Canada




 ------------------------------

 Message: 12
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:22:17 -0500
 From: Mark Langford <ml at n56ml.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW heads
 Message-ID: <67fc476f-1b2a-f46b-5abe-78cd21833152 at n56ml.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1252";
 Format="flowed"

 I called Revmaster Tuesday, but got no answer.? Today
 was better, and I 
 talked to a guy about their heads, hoping to find some with
 nice air 
 passages as well as "advanced" valve seats.? The photo
 on Revmaster 
 Aviation's website only shows the chamber side, and their
 website in 
 general had lots of issues, such as an inop price
 list.? He told me to 
 go look at the photos on the automotive website, since they
 were the 
 same RM-049 heads for either application.? After seeing
 that photo, I 
 was not impressed that the passages are much better than
 what has become 
 normal for VW head castings, although the castings are
 clearly not stock 
 VW derived. He also said their seat material was something
 like "latest 
 technology that others are also using, not just cast iron",
 for what 
 that's worth.

 I've been conversing with DRD Racing for a few days, and
 their 
 Chinese-derived heads do indeed have large cooling
 passages.? Given the 
 overall quality of these castings, I'm going to ASSume that
 they 
 wouldn't install crappy seats in an otherwise decent looking
 head, so 
 I've ordered a pair, especially after seeing a photo that
 DRD provided 
 today.? I'll update y'all when I have a pair on the
 work bench and can 
 get better photos, but the best I can do for a comparison at
 this point 
 is the two photos below (or enclosed, I hope) of a Revmaster
 RM-049 and 
 the DRD "OEM 43" head passages.? Cooling trumps seat
 life, at this point 
 in my life.? More after I do some testing on these
 heads. This may prove 
 to be a dumb idea, but somebody's got to try them out...


 Mark Langford
 ML at N56ML.com
 http://www.n56ml.com

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 ------------------------------

 Message: 13
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 17:44:04 -0500
 From: Phillip Hill <phill.hill at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> Revmaster R3000
 Message-ID:
 ??? <CAJeERg1Jihbu8mMq8e8ObW08ByKPe33ayfbw9z-GPTZdk6pPGA at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 They routinely test their engines on the race track for
 quite some time
 before it appears on an aircraft...at least that's what I
 suspect.

 On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 12:04 PM, Dj Merrill via KRnet
 <krnet at list.krnet.org
 > wrote:

 > On 06/22/2016 10:14 PM, Chris Prata via KRnet wrote:
 > > wow, that R3000 is interesting!
 > >
 > >> > https://issuu.com/panzera/docs/issue_104.5
 >
 > That issue is from 2012.???What ever
 happened with the R3000?? I don't
 > see any mention of it on their website:
 >
 > http://revmasteraviation.com/
 >
 > -Dj
 >
 > --
 > Dj Merrill - N1JOV - EAA Chapter 87
 > Sportsman 2+2 Builder #7118 N421DJ - http://deej.net/sportsman/
 > Glastar Flyer N866RH - http://deej.net/glastar/
 >
 > _______________________________________________
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change
 > options
 >


 ------------------------------

 Message: 14
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 18:57:04 -0400
 From: Kayak Chris <kayak1176 at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: KR> Revmaster R2300 and R3000 info
 Message-ID:
 ??? <CAF6k7fR+vbn=5FokNeL2qbe1xoENrbj+vD5Wp7ncDhQBKETDMQ at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 I inquired with them about the differences between the
 "quickie"
 2180's of the 80's and newer engines. It was confirmation
 that the
 improvements are in displacement, CDI ignition, and head
 improvements.
 I was happy to confirm (again) that the bottom end is as
 tough then as
 now, aparently.

 I also asked about the R3000 and he said they are going to
 build it
 when financing allows mass production.



 here is part of their reply:

 The engine we build today is equipped with a self-energized
 CDI
 ignition system and the older engines had? Bendix
 magnetos which are
 no longer available.???It has an improved
 geared starter, newer
 RevFlow carburetor.? Some of the older engines had the
 old POSA.???The
 crankshaft is 84mm vs. the 78mm in the
 2100.???The cylinders are 94mm
 vs. 92mm.? The camshaft has a higher lift and duration
 than the older
 engines.? ? There is a 40 amp alternating system,
 dual alternators 20
 amps each, combines with dual voltage
 regulator/rectifiers.? The older
 engine had 15 amps only.



 ------------------------------

 Message: 15
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 20:29:36 -0500
 From: Phillip Hill <phill.hill at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ??? <CAJeERg2B+aYc02RVpMHYpsROCO+UrG31ywaNUq505NRFCU1fwg at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 I don't know, I've been debating abandoning the KR with all
 the
 discouraging comments about the VW based designs. All the
 other options are
 super expensive. Seems flying is for the rich.

 On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 4:53 PM, Alastair Hawkins via KRnet
 <
 krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:

 > I have removed the Force one hub by making a
 specialized puller.
 >
 > You copy the hub bolt pattern into a 1/4"thick steel
 sheet.
 > Remove the prop bolt and hub? washer.
 > Take a socket and install the bolt thru it into the
 hub, then add another
 > socket so that it sticks out the front of the hub a
 1/4".
 > For the 2nd socket I used the one used to remove the
 prop hub bolt.
 > Install the plate over the socket, adding 6 bolts thru
 to hub, tighten
 > them up to about 50 foot pounds each, make sure to
 tighten them evenly.
 > Then hit the plate in the center with a hammer, the hub
 will pop off and
 > will be prevented from falling on the floor by the hub
 bolt.
 >
 > I have used this technique twice to remove the hub.
 >
 > Al Hawkins
 > KR2
 > Port Coquitlam BC.
 > Canada
 >
 >
 >
 > _______________________________________________
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change
 > options
 >


 ------------------------------

 Message: 16
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 21:57:17 -0400
 From: Kayak Chris <kayak1176 at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ??? <CAF6k7fRs3A+ro7pEZ1QdAxUjVN2JiS=DpT4W2YnQ2kovhFFmJw at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 its not necessarily cheap but a KR is about as cheap as it
 gets. and I
 honestly have concluded that the VW can be acceptably
 reliable and
 easy / cheap to maintain.



 On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 9:29 PM, Phillip Hill via KRnet
 <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:
 > I don't know, I've been debating abandoning the KR with
 all the
 > discouraging comments about the VW based designs. All
 the other options are
 > super expensive. Seems flying is for the rich.
 >



 ------------------------------

 Message: 17
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 21:47:50 -0500
 From: Mark Langford <ml at n56ml.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines - hub removal
 Message-ID: <d65f6695-c493-e9cc-ee0a-6c50feea7018 at n56ml.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252;
 format=flowed

 Alastair Hawkins wrote:

  > I have removed the Force one hub by making a
 specialized puller.

 That's good to know.? Maybe I'll try to replace my oil
 seals after all.

 I use the press because Steve Bennett told me there was no
 way to get 
 the hub off without a press.? I'll bet you've already
 learned the "keep 
 the keyway facing up" lesson...

 Mark Langford
 ML at N56ML.com
 http://www.n56ml.com





 ------------------------------

 Message: 18
 Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2016 23:06:01 -0500 (CDT)
 From: "Patrick Driscoll" <patrick36 at usfamily.net>
 To: "KRnet" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID: <FD2B49E80C754AB8822420402D82F1F9 at Rover>
 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed;
 charset="iso-8859-1";
 ??? reply-type=original

 Chris said: its not necessarily cheap but a KR is about as
 cheap as it gets. 
 and I
 honestly have concluded that the VW can be acceptably
 reliable and
 easy / cheap to maintain.

 Please fellows, do not degrade the KR. The word to use is,
 "inexpensive".
 Patrick Driscoll
 Saint Paul, MN
 patrick36 at usfamily.net
 www.pensbypat.com
 If you can read this, Thank a teacher
 If you are reading this in English, thank a veteran 




 ------------------------------

 Message: 19
 Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 04:18:40 +0000
 From: Mike Sylvester <SHAGSTER60 at hotmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: KR> painting update.
 Message-ID:
 ??? <BLUPR03MB139678909689C0D6A72A0E29C42E0 at 
BLUPR03MB1396.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 ??? 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

 Hey guys, I should have said sanding update as I have been
 basically taking off most all of the 2 part epoxy primer.
 Six days of hellish 12 hour days but the sanding is over
 with. Gonna try my hand at painting tomorrow. I'll let you
 know how it comes out. Let me say that I will never build
 another composite airplane, An all metal Sonex is looking
 good about now.


 Mike Sylvester
 kr2s builder
 Birmingham,AL.

 Cell no.205-966-3854


 ------------------------------

 Message: 20
 Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 06:13:31 -0400
 From: "Daniel Heath" <danrh at windstream.net>
 To: "'KRnet'" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> Cable safe
 Message-ID: <002701d1ce01$0f6f0c00$2e4d2400$@net>
 Content-Type: text/plain;???
 charset="iso-8859-1"

 This is the one I used on the BlackBird.? Inexpensive
 and easy to use.


 http://m.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/cablesafe.php?recfer=15096


 See N64KR at http://KRBuilder.org - Then click on the pics?

 2016 KR Gathering ? Mt. Vernon, Ill.

 Peoples Choice at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ?
 MVN 
 Best KR at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
 Best Interior at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN

 Best Paint at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon, Il ? MVN 
 Best Firwwall Forward at 2013 - KR Gathering in Mt. Vernon,
 Il ? MVN 

 Best Interior and Panel at 2008 ? KR Gathering in Mt.
 Vernon, Il - MVN


 Daniel R. Heath -?Lexington, SC






 ------------------------------

 Message: 21
 Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 04:08:36 -0700
 From: <ml at n56ml.com>
 To: "KRnet" <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> painting update.
 Message-ID:
 ??? <20160624040836.d04b1abb1c854b54fd3150a99c6879d4.3c33b0d773.wbe at 
email04.godaddy.com>
 ??? 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"

 Mike Sylvester wrote:

 >> Hey guys, I should have said sanding update as I
 have been basically taking off most all of the 2 part epoxy
 primer. Six days of hellish 12 hour days but the sanding is
 over with. Gonna try my hand at painting tomorrow. I'll let
 you know how it comes out. Let me say that I will never
 build another composite airplane, An all metal Sonex is
 looking good about now.<<

 Yep, high build primer is designed to sand, but 2 part epoxy
 is intended
 to go on and stay there, sanding or not!? You'll
 appreciate that
 composite airplane when you leave the Sonexes in the
 dust.? This
 exercise in futility will seem insignificant when you fly it
 to the
 Gathering the first time.? We're proud of ya!

 Mark Langford, Harvest, AL
 ML "at" N56ML.com
 www.N56ML.com





 ------------------------------

 Message: 22
 Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 14:16:53 +0000
 From: Mike Sylvester <SHAGSTER60 at hotmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: KR> painting update
 Message-ID:
 ??? <BLUPR03MB1396A9EB54F053940EFAD854C42E0 at 
BLUPR03MB1396.namprd03.prod.outlook.com>
 ??? 
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"

 Alright guys, went out at daylight to spray the wing tip
 before the heat got to bad. Tips look fantastic. Might try
 to spray color stripe on fuselage in the morning.?
 Already starting to forget about the sanding Larry. LOL.


 Mike Sylvester
 kr2s builder
 Birmingham,AL.

 Cell no.205-966-3854


 ------------------------------

 Message: 23
 Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 09:50:56 -0500
 From: Tommy Waymack <5blindate at gmail.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID:
 ???
 <CANwmPb024OTkqNNHet1Mg22Lxzm09v=dVte0Nh0nFYVDd03=OQ at mail.gmail.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

 I guess after 26 years behind a VW,I was dumb to think it
 would be a good
 choice.Tommy W.Never did land off airport.

 On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 11:06 PM, Patrick Driscoll via KRnet
 <
 krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:

 > Chris said: its not necessarily cheap but a KR is about
 as cheap as it
 > gets. and I
 > honestly have concluded that the VW can be acceptably
 reliable and
 > easy / cheap to maintain.
 >
 > Please fellows, do not degrade the KR. The word to use
 is, "inexpensive".
 > Patrick Driscoll
 > Saint Paul, MN
 > patrick36 at usfamily.net
 > www.pensbypat.com
 > If you can read this, Thank a teacher
 > If you are reading this in English, thank a veteran
 >
 > _______________________________________________
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change
 > options
 >


 ------------------------------

 Message: 24
 Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2016 11:09:18 -0400
 From: Chris Gardiner <cgardn628 at rogers.com>
 To: KRnet <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 Subject: Re: KR> VW Engines
 Message-ID: <2F24C35D-722E-4A86-BD02-DBAB9EDBF41C at rogers.com>
 Content-Type: text/plain;???
 charset=us-ascii

 I have to agree with the VW fans. 
 So far 250 trouble free hours on the GPACS 2180
 Only two minor precautionary "returns to home airport after
 takeoff" which can both be blamed on me , not the engine.
 Secondary timing drive slipped due to loose clamp on one
 occasion and broken push rod , end cap on the other occasion
 (cracked on assembly due to too much interference fit).
 No issues with oil leaking from bearing on Force One hub or
 slippage on the crank. Guess I lapped it in well enough
 before torquing it (2 hours).
 Valve adjustment is a constant pain as are small oil leaks
 but nothing to complain about really.
 I don't run it hard and generally cruise at 20"map and 2900
 rpm after 5 minutes WOT for takeoff.
 Cheers
 Chris Gardiner
 KR2S CGKRZ




 Sent from my iPad

 > On Jun 24, 2016, at 10:50 AM, Tommy Waymack via KRnet
 <krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:
 > 
 > I guess after 26 years behind a VW,I was dumb to think
 it would be a good
 > choice.Tommy W.Never did land off airport.
 > 
 > On Thu, Jun 23, 2016 at 11:06 PM, Patrick Driscoll via
 KRnet <
 > krnet at list.krnet.org>
 wrote:
 > 
 >> Chris said: its not necessarily cheap but a KR is
 about as cheap as it
 >> gets. and I
 >> honestly have concluded that the VW can be
 acceptably reliable and
 >> easy / cheap to maintain.
 >> 
 >> Please fellows, do not degrade the KR. The word to
 use is, "inexpensive".
 >> Patrick Driscoll
 >> Saint Paul, MN
 >> patrick36 at usfamily.net
 >> www.pensbypat.com
 >> If you can read this, Thank a teacher
 >> If you are reading this in English, thank a
 veteran
 >> 
 >> _______________________________________________
 >> Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 >> To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 >> please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 >> see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change
 >> options
 > _______________________________________________
 > Search the KRnet Archives at
 http://tugantek.com/archmailv2-kr/search.
 > To UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to KRnet-leave at list.krnet.org
 > please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
 > see http://list.krnet.org/mailman/listinfo/krnet_list.krnet.org
 to change options




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