I think the major reason that they want you to run a wood prop
is the vibration dampening ability of the wood.  Reciprocating
engines inherently create power pulses, instead of a nice steady
power output like, say, a jet turbine or electric motor.  

You have this mass of a propellor up front that has a certain
inertia to it, and when the power pulses are transferred, that
prop tries to resist...  This creates a torsional stress (a
fatigue stress at that), and if it gets bad enough for enough
time, it will break something (usually the crank).  The wood
prop tends to dampen these pulses out (not to mention the
inertia of the wood prop is USUALLY less than that of a
composite or metal one).

If you want to run a composite or metal prop (read something
other than wood) then you really "should" have a dampener of
some kind in the system....  Type IV rear drive units sold by
GPASC come with an elastomeric dampener, and a lot of gear
reduction drives have some kind of dampener built in.  In
general, it's not a good idea to run anything other than a
wooden prop on an undamped direct drive setup... (unless of
course the crank is designed with that fatigue cycle in mind)

Matt





--- Colin & Bev Rainey <crain...@cfl.rr.com> wrote:

> I have read for several years about only running wooden props
> with VW direct drive. Alittle research shows that the main
> reason was the crankshaft failures near the keyway on the tip
> of the crankshaft wear the hub is.  The Force One hub was
> designed to prevent this type of failure. If I have a Force
> One, then I should be able to run any prop I want since this
> is designed to eliminate the breakage problem at the snout of
> crank. I would like to run a ground adjustable Warp Drive
> prop. 
> 
> Colin & Beverly Rainey
> Apex Lending, Inc.
> www.eloan2004cr.com
> crai...@apexlending.com
> 407-323-6960
> _______________________________________
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> 


=====
-------------------------------------------------
Matthew Elder
Orangeburg, SC 
http://www.infinigral.com/melder

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