Air fuel mixtures are not easy to light off in a cylinder, that is why the gap is so important. You can get the spark to jump across nearly 1/2" of open uncompressed air, when just holding a grounded plug. But put that same plug into the engine with just twice its recommended gap, and it will not fire the mix at all, or will run very badly if it does run. The compression is not for lighting the fuel as in a diesel, but for speeding the burn rate without exploding it, so that reasonable work can be gotten out of the engine, and to make an air pump become self supporting. Notice the same job is performed by an electric air compressor, just for a different purpose: filling a tank with compressed air, not turning a drive shaft. Suggestion: you have added fuel, including starter fluid. No start. That is first basic element of running. Second: you have checked for the presence of spark, and you have one, weak but have one. That is second basic element. Third: you have not reported what your compression is? You need to check that. If compression is low, all else can be perfect and still no run. That is the third basic element of all combustion engines. Without those 3 all else does not matter! If the plugs are wet, and you have good compression, you know that you have fuel, and proper compression. Do the compression test the auto check way, not aviation way. Spin the engine to observe peak compression on a fresh battery with at least 3 compression strokes (needle jumps 3 times) to show peak compression running. If you do not get at least 85 to 90 pounds on a standard auto compression gauge, then you have a problem, stop wasting time trying to make a low compression engine run, and get the engine compression right. Either your valve timing is off (was off from assembly) or age has gotten to your cylinders, and they need work to reseal them. All a 4 cylinder needs is 2 weak cylinders to prevent running. This is an auto engine so all your specs will be in auto terms. If this compression is good, then check the valve timing to see where the cylinder is (you can use the compression gauge again to know that compression is beginning, to line up mag timing). While approaching TDC on exhaust stroke the exhaust valve will still be open so no compression growing. Do this by hand smoothly and you will see it start in plenty of time to know TDC compression. Jim Faughn has a very good instruction page on setting your mag timing on his sight, go to krnet.org, scroll down to Jim's page and look for timing engine. Tells you all you need to properly time mag.
Colin & Beverly Rainey Apex Lending, Inc. 407-323-6960 (p) 407-557-3260 (f) www.eloan2004cr.com crai...@apexlending.com
