If your spars are not closed yet, it would be best to add a block of spruce to the bottom of the top cap and to the top of the bottom cap. These could be 1" tall x the width of the cap and beveled 45° on each end. This would give you more internal spar surface to work with. You could do it as you say but then there is the weight factor.
Mark Jones (N886MJ) Wales, WI Visit my web site: http://mywebpage.netscape.com/n886mj Email: flyk...@wi.rr.com -----Original Message----- From: krnet-boun...@mylist.net [mailto:krnet-boun...@mylist.net]On Behalf Of jsmon...@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, June 21, 2005 8:39 AM To: kr...@mylist.net Subject: KR> Diehl Main Gear My spars are a little taller than stock KR2 Spars. Still has enough wood to be OK for through bolts.....but I was thinking that it might be good to put a thin plate of 4130 on the back side (actually front side nose dtragger!) of the spar from the casting to strengthen it up (size of casting). Will still use washers on the backside.as well. Any problems with that?? other than a little added weight? PS most of us probably shouldn't worry so much about our plane weight but could much easier loose 10 pounds... of course except for Mark L.! Thanks, John Monday KR2S Laguna Beach, CA _______________________________________ Search the KRnet Archives at http://www.maddyhome.com/krsrch/index.jsp to UNsubscribe from KRnet, send a message to krnet-le...@mylist.net please see other KRnet info at http://www.krnet.org/info.html
