Hi Guy's;

After reading the "Comment" letters I got to thinking about the modifications 
that have improved the KR. The one's that have (reportedly) worked well and 
made it better. I've never seen them all listed in one place (one sheet of 
paper) so to speak (excuse me if they have been) and I thought it might be 
helpful to someone who is considering building a new KR or buying a project to 
finish. I don't want to nor do I intend to spark a big debate about it (those 
have already been done) although I fear it will. I'd like to keep it a simple 
list of tested "improvements to the basic breed" and your input is welcomed. 
Just be civil. For those like to experiment, (God love you) go right ahead, 
that's what it's all about. By the way, I'm not an "expert", just an observer 
with a keen interest in the KR.

A new builder/finisher of a KR aircraft might do well to consider the following.

 -    Buy the KR-2 plans with the -S supplement and build the 
KR-2S, you'll be glad you did.

 -    Obtain and use the full sized drawings of the new KR airfoils of your 
choice for your situation. AS5045 - AS5046 - AS5048

-    Select your horizontal stabilizer incidence and/or wing angle according to 
the airfoil/situation you have or want.

 -    Build the fuselage 40 inches wide at the outside of the top longeron in 
the shoulder area (plans show 36") and taper the width in from there to the 
tail post. You'll be glad you did unless you want to use the stock R/R 
pre-molded canopy frame and turtle deck without possibly also widening them. 

-    Stay away from the retractable landing gear unless you just must have it, 
remember KISS. Fixed tail draggers with good "wheel pants" are slightly faster 
anyway "Diehl or Grove" brand and fixed tri-gears are easier for some pilots to 
handle on the ground but are slightly slower in the air. Your choice.

-    Build a long narrow 10" or so, wide fuel tank in each outer wing panel up 
against the back side of the front spar. This helps the Center of Gravity 
remain more constant as fuel is used and keeps the fuel as far away from you as 
possible. You could also use a small header tank under the forward deck with 
this setup if you choose. Your choice.

These are choices that need to be made first before starting to build or 
completing a project, they are hard or impossible to change later and could 
hurt any resale value they might have in the future.

All of the other choices like engines, tires/wheels, flaps/belly boards, 
props/spinners and the like are easier to change at any time you feel the need 
but the "hull" (Insurance speak) needs to be done right the first time.

I hope this script is recieved in the same good will as it was written and I 
would like to hear of anything that I forgot or left out.

I would also like to give a big thanks to Mark Langford, Mark Jones, Bill 
Clapp, Collin Rainey, Dan Heath, Larry Flesner and the many many others who 
make this e-mail list a truly treasured jewel in the KR family. God bless you 
all.

Regards
Myron (Dan) Freeman
Indpls, Ind. 46203 USA
mfreem...@indy.rr.com

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