Hi John,

Since it’s already attached I would lay out the cut so as to leave a small 
front and back section and say 1/2” on each side. This way you only have to lay 
up a flange on the inside   of what’s there and reattach it with #6 screws and 
blind nuts. Cutting the whole thing off means a lot more body work later. If 
you do a nice cut there won’t be any body work to do in this manner. 

Victor Taylor
Irvington Alabama 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Dec 27, 2018, at 18:00, [email protected] wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
> 1.  Separating a Fixed Forward Deck (John Bouyea)
> 2. Re:  Separating a Fixed Forward Deck ([email protected])
> 3. Re:  Separating a Fixed Forward Deck ([email protected])
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2018 06:41:36 -0800
> From: "John Bouyea" <[email protected]>
> To: "'KRnet'" <[email protected]>
> Subject: KR> Separating a Fixed Forward Deck
> Message-ID: <[email protected]>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset="us-ascii"
> 
> I'm looking for a few tips on what I might run into when making a fixed
> forward deck removable.
> 
> My existing (for sale) KR2 has a removable forward deck with a built-in 12G
> fuel tank. It makes accessing all the systems very easy.
> 
> My new-to-me KR has the deck permanently attached to the fuselage boat. This
> is making maintaining and upgrading systems and wiring very difficult.
> 
> I'd like to install a hinge attachment with a removable center-pin so I will
> be able to both lift the deck off for maintenance and reinstall it easily.
> 
> Has anyone gone through this upgrade on their project? Anything in
> particular I should check before I fire up the Dremel tool with my rotary
> cutter blade?
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> 
> 
> John Bouyea
> N5391M/ KR2
> OR81/ Hillsboro, OR
> 2015 KR@MMV Gathering CoHost
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2018 08:00:24 -0700
> From: <[email protected]>
> To: "KRnet" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: KR> Separating a Fixed Forward Deck
> Message-ID:
> <20181227080024.d04b1abb1c854b54fd3150a99c6879d4.e069175d5b....@email04.godaddy.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> John Bouyea wrote:
> 
>> I'd like to install a hinge attachment with a removable center-pin so I will
>> be able to both lift the deck off for maintenance and reinstall it easily.
>> 
>> Has anyone gone through this upgrade on their project? Anything in
>> particular I should check before I fire up the Dremel tool with my rotary
>> cutter blade?
> 
> If you don't have an "oscillating multi-tool" yet, it may be time to buy
> one.  This thing has a thin flat flat on it that is self-guiding.  Lay
> it on the longeron inside the canopy towards the front, and nibble your
> way forward, ensuring that you don't cut any electrical cables or other
> critical stuff along the way.  Once it's started, you'd have to pivot
> the body outside the fuselage to clear the deck.  There's a blade for
> these things that is semi-circular, which would work pretty good for
> these.  It "shouldn't" cut into your longeron, but keep an eye on it to
> make sure.  See
> https://www.amazon.com/Vtopmart-Oscillating-Multimaster-Milwaukee-Craftsman/dp/B07JX78MC4/ref=zg_bs_8106524011_8?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MG1DWZHA57SVJR1FFVA6
> for an example of the kind of blade I'm talking about (the bottom one in
> the photos).  You can get one of these at Home Depot.
> 
> Having said this, no, I've never done it, but I've certainly considered
> it for N891JF!  I do recommend reattaching it with piano hinges, which
> you've probably seen at http://www.n56ml.com/kmlfd.html .  This takes
> (in the case of N56ML) the whole front deck and canopy off in a under a
> minute....just pull two pins and remove!
> 
> Let us know how it works out....
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
> ML "at" N56ML.com
> www.N56ML.com
> ge to [email protected]
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2018 08:08:00 -0700
> From: <[email protected]>
> To: "KRnet" <[email protected]>
> Subject: Re: KR> Separating a Fixed Forward Deck
> Message-ID:
> <20181227080800.d04b1abb1c854b54fd3150a99c6879d4.212e1f8f6b....@email04.godaddy.com>
> 
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> I wrote:
> 
> "If you don't have an "oscillating multi-tool" yet, it may be time to
> buy
> one. This thing has a thin flat flat on it that is self-guiding"
> 
> I meant to say "thin flat blade".  They come in many shapes, but the one
> for this may be the semi-circular blade.  If you buy an oscillating
> multi-tool kit, it'll probably come with one in the box, as well as some
> flat ones.  You can mount them at several angles, so really, even the
> flat one would work...just install it at an angle that allows the body
> to clear the deck, while the tool cuts along the top of the longeron. 
> This same tool makes cutting the center spars out of a fuselage a
> breeze, because the blade is so thin it barely removes any wood, leaving
> a gap that is easily filled with epoxy/flox if needed.
> 
> I should probably proofread my posts BEFORE I send them, rather than
> later.  Well, at least I use capital letters and punctuation....
> 
> Mark Langford, Huntsville, AL
> ML "at" N56ML.com
> www.N56ML.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
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> ------------------------------
> 
> End of KRnet Digest, Vol 6, Issue 293
> *************************************


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