At 08:47 PM 4/24/04 -0700, Weronika Patena wrote:

>Another question - if I put linen lace on a T-shirt or other clothing,
>can I machine-wash it after that, at least if I use heavy thread?

If sewn well, applique' lace is exactly as durable as embroidery done with
the same thread.  (More durable, in the case of tatting.)  I do dry it on a
hanger -- but I don't tumble-dry *anything* more valuable than bath towels.  

To avoid differential shrinkage, I soak my cotton tatting until the water
has had time to penetrate the knots.  I imagine that dipping would serve to
wet linen bobbin lace, if the thread isn't heavily sized.  Then I put it
between two dry cloths, and hold a hot iron on the sandwich until live steam
comes out from under the soleplate.  After that, I let it air undisturbed
until dry.  

Then I sew it on by every picot and some of the joins.  

It's a good idea to choose a pattern without a lot of picots, since picots 
rumple in the wash if they aren't sewn to the fabric.  Sewing lots of picots 
down is a pain, but not as big a pain as having to stretch each one with a 
knitting needle after every wash.

If the fabric underneath is permanent-press, the lace will block itself.  
If not, it can be pressed from the back, like embroidery.  Fabric is apt 
to press into wrinkles under a thick applique', so a heavy thread should 
be worked into a design dense enough to conceal the wrinkles -- unless 
you sew it to a stiff fabric that doesn't need ironing.  A soft ironing 
surface will reduce the wrinkling by letting the applique' sink away from 
the fabric -- a thick towel is good, but can be used only once because 
you flatten the fuzz.  (On the other hand, it still will dry you after a 
shower just fine, and will fluff up again when washed.)

Watch out for dye that bleeds.  

-- 
Joy Beeson
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
http://home.earthlink.net/~joybeeson/
http://home.earthlink.net/~beeson_n3f/ 
west of Fort Wayne, Indiana, U.S.A.
where the trees are leafing out.

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