I nearly always use the double head on a midlands bobbin - the exception would be if I have thick thread too bulky for that bobbin, or a very slippy synthetic perhaps, but for "normal" thread it is as easy to put the hitch on the head as on the neck and is often easier to release thread. As others have said, thread on thread has the risk of catching.
The important thing is that the thread changes direction so if it is wound clockwise onto the bobbin, the thread passing into the hitch (wherever it is) should be anti-clockwise. The hitch sits against this change of direction and this acts as the brake. As to the shape of the head - I have one very old bobbin where head looks as if it has been sat on (by lace fairy?). The lower bulb shape is not () but almost <> (with curves not corners, of course) and then the top is like an umberella or saucer over it, with the edges curving down slightly. It is just wonderful to use, and the thread stays in place. It's this slightly down-turning sweep of the top that holds the thread as the hitch snuggles up under it. Of the modern bobbin makers, I guess Richard Gravestock's bobbins are still following this general principle (why doesn't he get mentioned more on arachne, he is still one of my favourite bobbin makers), and I have some *very* early Springett's bone ones with this shape. The more modern trend seems to be for the top of the head to have a straight sided shape \ / which allows the thread to slide off far more easily. As to Kenn's point about the grooves. This is a common "decoration" on otherwise plain Honiton bobbins. At the top of the body there are two, three or four very fine lines. They are a pain in the b***. Maybe Kenn isn't using his bobbins to do sewings, or if he is perhaps the thread is thicker than the groove, but the Honiton thread just fits right in there. Jacquie - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
