In a message dated 7/29/05 10:37:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, [EMAIL PROTECTED] writes:
> after you have threaded the needle there will still be two > threads hanging either side of the needle and they will lie beside each > other and go through the fabric in exactly the same way whichever way you > have threaded the needle. > > So is the action of putting the thread through the needle the part which > causes the problem with the thread - roughing up the fibres if you put it > through the wrong way? Or is there something I'm missing altogether as I > draw diagrams > > Dear Sue, I was taught not to double up sewing thread. When you thread the needle, the end you used (off the spool) becomes the short thread (no more than 3" long because it will be thrown away where it wears against the needle's eye). The long end gets the knot. If you use the proper size needle, the needle will not become unthreaded. The longer piece is the thread that sometimes tangles and gets in knots if thread does not go through the needle and into the fabric with the grain. Over-twisting Thread Prevention: As you stitch, rolling the needle in your fingers just a little of the way around after stitches will prevent too much twisting. You'll have to look at what the thread is doing to determine which way to always roll the needle. It depends on how you stitch, what stitch you are using, and which hand you use. Some people may not have this problem. Many self-taught stitchers are not taught the following, and they wonder why the quality of their work is not like what they see in pictures in a book: If you are embroidering, you should be taught to not double thread. Instead, you determine the grain, cut the thread and pull out as many strands as you need one-by-one. The way to do this is to hold the six strands between your left index (pointer) finger and thumb with about 1/2 " loose above the finger grip. The threads should drop vertically. Then, you choose one strand and pull it straight UP with your right hand. It should come out easily. If the thread tangles just a little it is easy to straighten out the 5 remaining threads before pulling thread #2. If the thread tangles into a mess, you are pulling against the grain! You lay each thread side-by-side on your work surface or arm of arm chair until you have the correct amount (before you do this, dismiss the cat!), then put the knot in the proper end (the end that was dangling below your hand). Even up the threading end with scissors, and thread your needle. (I put a loose knot in any leftover threads at this point, so I know which end is which when I go back for more, because I may need to cut another length to get the proper number of threads. In fact, for a large project, I prepare a lot of thread in advance.) You would do the same thing if separating a skein of Au ver a soir (silk) floss. This product comes with 7 threads in the skein, so you can easily tell what is cotton (6 strands) and what is silk! The separation of threads, then put back together, insures that the threads are less likely to twist when you embroider. You will also get better coverage for satin, buttonhole, cross stitches, and others! You can learn to use a laying tool (large darning needle will work) to stroke the satin stitch threads and they will lay straight side-by-side. (I actually lay threads in cross stitch when I use more than one thread - and it makes cross stitch look wonderful.) This technique is illustrated in some books, and needs to be seen to do properly. To do this, you have to have your fabric on a stretcher, and you have to sit at a table like a professional - which is easier on your neck and back.. *When all threads in the needle are going in the same grain direction you get a beautiful result that will gleam in the light like satin.* DMC used to print a little hand on one of the two labels holding floss skeins, to tell people which tail to pull from the skein. This meant a more intact remaining skein. With the new cheaper thread they now distribute (probably thanks to WalMart and other stores that demand "cheaper"), this label seems to have gone by the wayside. The thread has become of lesser quality and is more difficult to use. People have resorted to winding the skeins on small square thread winders. Some people have such sensitive finger tips, they can detect the grain. This comes with practice. Thread Length: The thread you sew or embroider with should not be more than 18" long. I use the length from the tips of my fingers to my elbow and add a couple inches as my thread cutting guide. If you find that your thread shows wear: It could be from an incorrect needle, a damaged needle, or just your stitching technique. If technique, you should cut the thread shorter. Ironing Threads: Cotton and other fibers that people stitch with sometimes benefit from smoothing, but you do not have to get out an electric iron. In needlework shops they sell little plastic boxes containing a small sponge. If you pull thread through a damp folded white sponge (it should have no soap in it), you iron out any wrinkles (especially those from hand winding floss on those small square thread winders (either white card or plastic) that some people now use to organize floss. A quick and inexpensive way is to fold a acid-free paper towel (Bounty brand) into a pad, dampen it, and pull the thread(s) through that. I do this just before I knot and thread my needle, with the grain, again holding the several threads vertically. Put the paper towel on a small saucer - and not near metal sewing tools. One benefit is you can sometimes tell if a dye will run - if it stains the white sponge or paper towel This ironing tip is a good tip for bobbin lacemakers who have chosen an unusual gimp thread that could benefit from "ironing". Never use an iron on synthetics that will melt -- in fact, it is unwise to use synthetics because in the future someone who knows less about thread than you do will mistakenly iron them. Also, the raw materials used to make synthetics causes them to disintegrate faster than natural fibers. Judge what to use, based on how long you want your creation to "live". Needles: The eyes are made with a stamping tool, and then the under side is filed to smooth off rough edges. If you have trouble threading a needle, you may be using the underside of the eye. Roll the needle around and try from the side the stamping equipment first hit to make the eye of the needle. I am deeply sorry that schools no longer offer sewing and embroidery and lace lessons. However, old home economics books are plentiful and cheap. One such book can offer many tips that are helpful. Noone likes tangled threads. There is a lot more information you could learn, but this is it for today's "lesson". You sounded so in need of some additional guidance, Sue, and I hope this will help. Jeri Ames in Maine USA Lace & Embroidery Resource Center - To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line: unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to [EMAIL PROTECTED]
