I have been unsubscribed for a few weeks because of an unexpected family
death in the UK shortly before Christmas and having to dash off at a moments
notice.
But I have just re-subscribed and seen the message about the Tonder
Pricking. I am jumping in without having seen the original posting on this
subject and am therefore not sure what the problem actually is, but I think
you must be talking about the pin arrangement in the centre of the flower.
Firtly, I think what Antje means is that you work the stitches in the Point,
or Tulle, ground but only putting in pins at alternate pin holes, leaving
alternate stitches without a pin to support them.
I have an old Spanish pricking for a Point Ground hankie, Catalan Ret Fi,
that I bought years ago, which has been used but only alternate pinholes in
the point ground have been used, and with quite a thick pin at that. Those
pin holes in between which have been left unpricked would have had a stitch
worked over them but because of the thickness of the pins used at the time
there would not have been room for all of the pins to be put into all of the
pin holes. Does that make sense?
I think this is what Ante means in her reply. But I don't think this
approach applies to the centre of that flower.
I looked in my copy of Pamela Nottingham's book The Techniques of Bucks
Point Lace and pages 148-149 have a handkerchief edging that has a similar
pin arrangement within it to that which is in the centre of that flower in
the Tonder pattern.
The text of that Bucks Point Pattern says.
"Honeycomb stitches are used between, (two parallel pinholes), pins A & B,
then the inner pairs from each of these two pins make a tally to pins C & D,
(which pins are the two parallel pins immediately below pins A & B, C below
A and D below B, where honeycomb stitches are made and the pins put up).
Honeycomb stitches are now made at each side, (parallel pins F, which is to
the Left of pin C, and pin E ,which is to the right of Pin D). The inner
pairs from F & C make a tally to pins J & K. On the other side pairs make a
tally from D & E to pins G & H. When pairs from K & G make the next tally
the vertical row had been established".
Now if you can follow that you will have done well without having a diagramm
of the pins. I have added some text and put it in ( ) to try and make the
meaning clearer because you may not have this book and cannot see the
diagram. Perhaps it would be an idea to mark out the dots on a priece of
scrap paper and letter them in the way described above to get an idea of
what is meant before you work the stitches themselves.
This description could be the same as for making the Snowflake in Flanders
lace that Tamara mentioned I am not sure. In Geraldine Stott & Bridget
Cooks book Of Bobbin Lace Stitches has on page 81 a Rose Ground Worked
Straight which has a similar pin arrangement.
Not sure I have helped at all but that's my twopennyworth.
Regards
Jenny DeAngelis
Spain.
Antje wrote
<<In Almagro, where the typical Spanish blonde was made (the blonde for the
mantillas), as they used very very fine thread, they didn't draw one line of
dots, because there was not enough space for the pins (they use the normal
pins, quite big for blonde). That is, you work one line of tulle putting
pins, and another line (not drawn) without placing the pins. The next one is
drawn, the next one isn't... etc. Do you understand? You have to imagine a
line of dots in between the lines you have in your pattern (in this case in
a vertical direction), so that the dots you have and the dots you imagine
form the little diamonds necessary for making tulle.>>
-
To unsubscribe send email to [EMAIL PROTECTED] containing the line:
unsubscribe lace [EMAIL PROTECTED] For help, write to
[EMAIL PROTECTED]
