Dear Mrs Sally,
please do not compare the products used for weaving towards lace.
The reason way is that in weaving you have a lot of fibres and such
possible attachement fibres for making the products kling to it
in lace you have almost no cloth, you create openings rather then weaved
colsures.
So what is used in profs...
the same as is used for 100dres of years
WATERBASE:
sugar
cornflower
patatoflower
ALCOHOLBASE:
Shellack
or other Pinethree based GUM
and thraditional GUMMA arabica
(the shellack and gumma you will find mostly in silk thulle like products
like it is mostly sold for bridalwear , here yo can mostly clean and
only gradualy it will loos stability)
Buthylalcohol bases
and these are the extra strong ones but also the extra dangerous ones
because buthylalcohol is considered an cancerougenous product
petrolbases resins.
you can clean as oft as you want it will not do anythingh
WHAT is the difference??
the waterbase is the most natural and also the most difficult
the stronger you want your textile
the more times you need to repeat the proces of applying it to the
textile over and over again
BUT in the end your textile stays "unspoiled" you can reinice it and
will have again
your natural peace of textile
That is the minuspoint of the 2 others
you apply it and that is it it will sty there for ever....
mostly in machine lace they will use a polymer which resambles serisine
(silk gleu)
but again the professional will look towards what is the enduse for the
lace.
if a special highend marked lace for "haute couture" it deos not matter
they willnot clean it afterwards
however if you make it for underwear...... well most persons will want
to clean it regulary (normaly)
there they will use no product at all i know that you are a bit
startled now but there they will take an other sort of threads or add
some special threads
for makeing it stick and stay like intended.
you are all woman out here so it will be easy to explain
take one of your more fancy BH's
if you have picots on the edges and you take a magnifier and look how it
is made you will see
that it has no reason stay in shape because in the machine picot is
not made like we make a picot
so way does it stay anyway like a picot????? because in some of the
threads there are thermofixing fibres
which stick together when after the machine lace is made just ironing it
will make it stay in form and that is moqtly forever
mostly in all textiles you will find of theses fibres
even in some "100%" pure natural ones
because 100% does not realy mean 100%
it all depends of the origine of the producing country.........
the moral of it all is
do not just look to the finished product and ask yourself what starsh
did they use?
but rather start to look what kind of fibers did they use to start from?
Because not all natural fibres can be made strong in the same way........
and as Mrs Sally was mentioning in her analyse of cotton
you have cotton cotton and cotton.....
francis
Sally Schoenberg schreef:
Ordinarily I wouldn't dream of disagreeing with Barbara Underwood, but in the
case of thread, I disagree with her. I've made Bedfordshire with Brok,
Egyptian, and Finca. My lace made with Finca was nice and stiff unwashed, but
after rinsing it in water, drying and pressing it, it turned into soft fuzzy
lace. Rinse lace made with Brok thread in water, dry it and mangle or press
it, and it is as limp as Egyptian. The main difference between Brok and
Egyptian, I am convinced, is the sizing. Finca, I think, is an inferior
thread made with short bits of cotton that has been coated with a strong
sizing that is effective only until the first washing. I don't use Finca at
all anymore.
This is a subject I've been thinking about for awhile. I wish I knew what the
thread manufacturers use for sizing. My handweaving books have some receipes
for sizing and I've been thinking I need to do some experiments. Like
Barbara, I want stiff Bedfordshire.
Sally Schoenberg
Farmington
New Mexico
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