Our first sight of the coastline of Croatia was disappointing as the aeroplane
swooped down into a misty landscape, but I could just make out the rocky
indentations and the dozens of little islands.   It was early evening and a
short taxi drive took us to a small but pleasant suburban hotel just outside
the town.  In the morning we were provided with a town map and instructions
where to find the local bus, No 6 into Dubrovnik.
Our learning curve was steep - bus stops are marked by yellow lettering on the
road, nearly worn away and took some finding.  We entered the mediaeval city
by a gateway in the high walls.  It is built on a peninsula jutting out to
sea, a magnificent fortification.  Very narrow stone cobbled streets, lined
with small shops, criss-cross the town in a grid structure, punctuated by the
occasional large building, church or open square.  The town has been heavily
reconstructed after the 1991 bombardment, which is good, but the result lacks
some of the atmosphere of older places.

We left no little shop unturned.  There was much modern embroidery for sale in
the form of mats, table-cloths, doilies etc. Copies of patterns from
traditional costume in counted stitchery, all worked from the wrong side of
the fabric.  One shop had some antique costume for sale, but very expensive.
I opted for two small embroidered mats.  Only one shop was selling lace and
had examples of the Pag needlelace and the Lepoglava bobbin lace.  This too
was expensive, but the Lepoglava lace was beautiful and an oval piece reminded
me of Miss Channer's mat.  Pauline decided to wait until we got to Pag and to
Lepoglava, before buying any lace - a wise decision, it never does to go mad
on the first day.

Next - up the coast to Split.

Angela Thompson

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