In response to Nancy's note on lace-chat, I thought this might be of use
to others new to using block pillows. No doubt we all have different
ways of making and using pattern segments, this is the way I do it.
In message <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>, Nancy
Nicholson <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> writes
>I would just like to thank everyone for the input for this question of
mine. >I have just bought a nine piece block pillow with a roller insert
so am set >up now.
Just don't know what to do with it though...........
Do you mean how to use it, or which of the projects you want to do, to
do first?
If the latter, I doubt any of us can help, but if the former:
As a block pillow, you can use it with complete patterns - eg a
bookmark, where if you were using a round pillow the bobbins would be
over the edge by the time you reach the bottom. On the block pillow, pin
the pattern horizontally central, but with the top of the pattern at the
top of a block. Sort the blocks so that the top of the pattern is at a
comfortable place to start. As you work, push this line of blocks away
from you to move the pattern up - as the top block falls off the pillow
and you get a gap at the bottom, move the top block to the bottom to
support the bobbins.
At this stage, getting used to using a flat pillow is half the problem -
use it on a slope, either supported by a stand, tilting table or make a
small bean bag to rest the top on. (This can be as wide as the pillow,
or not quite, if you use the polystyrene bean bag beads it allows the
pillow to settle and stay put without slipping or rocking, which happens
if you end up at class with only a purse or glasses case to support - as
my lot never seem to learn!). The slope of the pillow means that gravity
assists the spangles in tensioning your work.
If you have a very long piece (or a corner) to work, you need to have at
least two pieces of your pattern prepared before you start. Prick the
pattern in one piece before you cut it into two. Look carefully at the
pattern to see where will be a sensible place to cut, draw a pencil line
across and either side of the actual pricking, use a waterproof pen to
draw two fine short parallel lines at right angles to your pencil line -
these will help you to line up the pieces when you are working. Protect
the surface under the pricking, and cut along the pencil line using a
sharp craft knife. When put back together, these two pieces will match
up exactly.
You then need to ensure that the top and bottom of the pricking will
match up. Using a surface that you can pin into, and will not matter if
you damage it with the cutting, overlap the original start and finish of
the pricking (not the centres where you made the first cut) matching the
pattern repeat, allowing an overlap of at least four rows of pinholes
Pin through the pinholes for a couple of lines either way to hold the
pieces in place and push the pins right in. Draw a fine pencil line as
before, across the centre of this section (but avoid cutting through
pinholes!) and using a sharp craft knife cut across, cutting through
both pieces of the pattern. On the side of the cut that leaves you with
the trimmed piece on top, pin through a couple of pinholes of the single
card (beyond the trimming) to hold this piece in place. Remove the pins
from the trimmed piece on this side of the cut and remove the trimming
(you should now have the two main pieces of pattern, cut through but
held in place - there will still be a trimmed piece under one side). Use
a waterproof pen to draw three short parallel lines (or two lines with a
wider gap between than at the other join!) across the cut at right
angles, either side of the pricking, again to act as a means to
accurately line up your pricking in use. Remove the pins and discard the
short trimmings. You should now have two pieces of pricking which will
match up exactly whether top to bottom or bottom to top.
You can make the cut straight across or along a diagonal, depending on
the space between the pinholes.
If you have a corner to divide, it is better not to have the slice along
the 45deg corner line. Any mistakes in lining up will show up like a
sore thumb! Prick two identical pieces including corners, allowing
enough of the pattern to overlap and trim but still leaving the length
of pattern you want between corners. You may need to cut a straight
section of pattern to extend the sides between the corners, and if you
are doing something larger (eg a tablecloth) you will need a second
straight piece. Make sure that you will not lose any of the pattern
repeat before you cut, and that all of the pieces will accurately match
up to each other as they are swapped around in use.
Now you have your pricking, pin the first section to the pillow and
start to work. As you near the end of this section, line up and pin the
second piece of pricking to the pillow below it, and continue working
across the join. When you are at least half way, preferably two-thirds,
down this section (it is better if each piece is at least 3-4 inches
long) remove the pins from the first piece and move the first (or next
if you are heading for a corner) pattern piece into place below the one
you are working on, making sure the parallel lines match up. Continue in
this manner until you have completed your project.
--
Jane Partridge
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