>Is Het Lassen the correct term for this joint?  Does the lace actually
>comprise of two ends that overlap and are sewn together at both ends of the
>overlap?  If so, doesn't that make a thick join?  Or, do you make an overlap
>and then after sewing both ends together at some convenient point, cut off the
>excess on both sides?

Yes, Het Lassen is the term for overlapping and joining strip laces.  The last 
sentence is the correct technique.

An extra length is made -- a repeat or two or three, depending on the pattern 
-- so you have a good selection of areas to work with.  (I vaguely remember 
someone recommending at least two inches.)  A pathway across the overlapped 
section is decided, and an overcast thread is sewn on two rows of lacing across 
the width of the lace.  After sewing, the two excess ends are trimmed off.

This is a very neat way to attach two lengths of the same lace pattern, or to 
join the beginning and end of a handkerchief lace.  There used to be 
specialists who only did this for all the lacemakers or seamstresses in the 
town.  These days we have to do it ourselves.


Try to get hold of a copy of "Het Lassen en Aannaaien van Kant" by Louise 
Allis-Viddeleer.  It translates as "Joining and Attaching Lace".  Many lace 
groups have a copy in their libraries.  It is a thesis that was promoted and 
published by Kantcentrum in Brugge in 1993,  It was written in Dutch or Flemish 
but it has a separate English translation of the words.  ( I wish they would 
reprint it.)

This book discusses various ways of joining lace strips, and then gives 
detailed diagrams of the overlapping technique in many different lace styles.  
The last section details several methods of attaching the finished lace to 
fabric.

One hint I picked up somewhere (possibly from a class from Anny Noben-Slegers) 
was to use a thread two sizes smaller than the thread used in the lace...if 
possible to match the brand and color.  Otherwise, use the same thread.  The 
overlapped section with overcasting along two rows will show up a bit on the 
lace because it makes a slightly thicker thread line, but with judicious 
choosing of the sewing pathway, it can be hard to see.  It shows up the most 
across ground stitches so I try to follow the edge of a pattern or trail or 
something as much as possible.

I was forced to learn this method when I made a handkerchief edging for a class 
from a pattern I designed.  A couple repeats into the pattern I decided I 
didn't like a section so started changing the pattern.  When I got a repeat I 
liked, I continued with it but then had to make an extra eight inches of lace 
to overlap the 'bad' repeats at the start.  I discovered that the overlapping 
is no harder than tying off and weaving in loose ends, just different.

Don't be afraid to try it.

Alice in Oregon -- sunshine but cool.





----- Original Message ----
From: Janice Blair <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Subject: [lace] Het Lassen <sp> or joining lace

I took a beginning Binche class with Anny Noben Sleiger at convention this
summer.  I am now coming round to the joining of this small circular lace
piece and I want to know how to finish.  In my case I actually started this
piece with pairs of bobbins so I could sew into the starting points similarly
to how I do my buckspoint, but I would like to know more about the overlapping
joining techniques.

Is Het Lassen the correct term for this joint?  Does the lace actually
comprise of two ends that overlap and are sewn together at both ends of the
overlap?  If so, doesn't that make a thick join?  Or, do you make an overlap
and then after sewing both ends together at some convenient point, cut off the
excess on both sides?

I understand that this overlapping technique is good for those of us who make
mistakes in the lace and have a second chance at improving the piece, but in
something that has lots of tallies, I could go on forever and never be
satisfied with all of them. :-)

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