Thank you Brenda and Jane,
I just printed it off bigger, following your suggestions. As it was a
pretty small piece, the larger print still looks like it will work and comes
up a bit like a large church window which was what I was looking for and I
think will still fit inside one of those cards with a circular appeture.
I do have Edition 5, but my old maths skills have sadly deserted me, so
thank you both for coming to my assistance, <g>.
Brenda, When you talk about the grid size between footedge and grid, I
understand perfectly on a straight piece, how do I go about checking that on
a bucks circular pattern? Looking at this I can see along the diagonal
(which I am guessing is the grid, and straight across the piece which has a
slightly wider gape. Obviously with the different angle of bucks verses the
torchon examples in the book, its not so obvious to my poor little tired
brain, <g>.
Many thanks,
Sue t
Dorset UK
Hi Sue
If you have one of the later editions of Threads for Lace have a look at the
thread wraps per space - page 8 in Ed5.
The finer the thread the more leeway you have in the number of wraps/cm you
have, but.....
for a Bucks (point ground) pattern using a 58 w/cm thread (slightly finer
than Brok 100/2) the ideal space between footedge pinholes is 1.8mm.
For a 40 w/cm thread (slightly finer than Egyptian 60/2) it's 2.5mm which
is quite a bit bigger.
100% / 1.8 x 2.5 = 138.888888 so you need to increase your pattern by 139%
which is a lot. A4 -> A3 increase is 141% which is only marginally bigger.
Brenda
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