> some kind of tension between Gertrude Biederman,
> holding a traditionalist point of view, and Kathe Kliot representing a
> modern art-lace position

Even today, there is tension between the traditionalist point of view and the
modern art-lace position, but I recall the tension being much stronger in
times past (I learned in 1981). Well into the 80s you might be told - in no
uncertain terms - that lace must be made with fine white thread, preferably
linen though cotton might be OK if you aren’t making anything important.
Certain techniques must be used, others can never be used, and no, you can’t
put in helping pins. Pinholes are there to be worked, and extra pins are
simply not allowed. There were exhibitions that refused to display coloured
laces.

Then, along came the modernists, using all kinds of heavy threads or strings
in all kinds of colours, using whatever techniques they needed to get the
effect they wanted. I’m sure by now you have looked at the Kliot’s book
“Bobbin Lace: Form by the Twisting of Cords”, published in 1973; many
modern pieces are shown along with some traditional work. The Kliots also
edited and published Gertrude Biedermann’s more traditional book,
"Traditional Bobbin Lace: Patterns in Torchin, Guipure and Idria”. Same
place, same era, different views.

Hope this helps.

Adele
West Vancouver, BC

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