Don't forget that traditional lace would once have been considered "modern" - 
laces like Maltese and Bedfordshire certainly followed the general designs in 
use in other media at the time, and all lace had to follow fashion to stay 
economically viable. In times gone by, it wasn't the lacemakers who designed 
the lace because working in a cottage industry they simply didn't have the time 
to consider working out their own patterns. It is possible that those who did 
"gave up the day job" to go it alone, or if they showed signs of having 
particular talent were "talent spotted or head-hunted" by the dealers who 
supervised their work. One would have had to have some financial independence 
to afford art and design training of any type, and in many cases those 
designing lace would probably have been working in wider fashion circles - the 
lace being designed to complement the item it was to adorn. The option for any 
lacemaker to start designing for him/herself would have most likely de!
 veloped with the onset of the adult education, when lace was being made as a 
hobby rather than as a means of earning a living. Design isn't for everyone, 
and as Sue pointed out, if we all designed, there would be no-one to work our 
patterns.  It is nice, though, when after designing a piece of lace (be it 
modern or traditional), you find out it has been worked by others - it makes 
the time spent working on the design worth it.

To some extent I think that whether in a class you have some or no students 
wishing to design is down to the motivation they are given - if the teacher is 
weak in his/her own design skills, then s/he is less likely to encourage her 
students to progress in that area (because, maybe subconsciously, s/he doesn't 
feel confident to guide them if they get stuck). If the teacher has an open 
mind, with a "why not try, and see if you like it" attitude, and gives the 
class some opportunity and guidence as to how to do their own thing, even if it 
is only changing elements in a Torchon pattern rather than sticking with the 
prescribed stitches, then some might wish to go further in that direction. In 
the past there have been some teachers who actively or accidentally suppressed 
any deviation by their students - maybe I'm not the only one to have been put 
off wearing a piece of jewellery I designed by the reaction to it by my teacher 
- fortunately that was reversed when I had the piece on!
  display when I was giving a demonstration and it got so many compliments I 
started wearing it again. 

It's a bit like having children - let them learn from their own mistakes, if 
they want to follow a particular direction, or work on one apect, let them - 
don't feel you, as a teacher, have to push them into what you want them to 
learn - sometimes they will carry on (though maybe only in class, for fear of 
upsetting you) - some will put their toes in the water and decide it isn't for 
them, others will take the traditional skills they have learned, and move them 
on into thicker threads, distorted grids and shapes, and wild colours - lace at 
the end of the day should be what pleases the lacemaker, regardless of whether 
it is a traditional pattern, designed donkeys' years ago and worked umpteen 
times, or something they lay musing about in the bath as a "I wonder what will 
happen if I use those threads....?"

For the last three days I've been on a stand at New Street Station, Birmingham 
(UK), promoting the Great Little Trains of Wales; we had a seaside theme 
(complete with beach (breakdown last night included shovelling up the sand to 
go back to the beach it came from!) We were asked to take sunhats to wear - so 
out came mine with the lace (fish outlined by orange gimps set on blue Torchon 
ground) hatband I designed for a Lace Guild publication (the Penguin Pattern 
Book, which was a children's story book by Deborah Robinson, illustrated with 
lace patterns; now long out of print). Watching people passing through the 
station showed just how much lace is in fashion again now - from collars to 
skirts and dresses, and facinators - a modern fashion accessory. 

Wouldn't life be boring if we all did the same thing?

Jane Partridge
________________________________________

Alex said:
 It is
time for those of us who enjoy making and designing lace in the traditional
manner to stand up and say we should also have recognition for our art and
craft, and traditional lacemakers usually have a greater understanding of the
craft. If you go to any Lace Day the number of traditional lacemakers far
outweighs the number of modernists. I am currently running three classes and
have only two interested in designing.  So why the emphasis on modern lace?

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