Thank you for taking time to write Leonard! I printed your explanation & added
it to my file. The last few months have been an English lace odyssey for me &
I confess I was ill prepared for Bucks Point. When I started, I looked in my
Intro book by Jean Leader/Lace Guild & remembered that I had made Little Pea &
Plum Pudding some years ago so at first I concentrated on the laces that I had
never tried—Beds, Malmesbury et al. Cathy at IOLI library has done a
yeoman’s job of sending books from my reading list so I could steep myself
in history plus work a few samples before I visit UK at the end of this month.
With departure fast approaching, I had a little extra time & decided to work a
new Bucks pattern. With only working diagrams, the Intro book & Practical
Skills to guide me, it turned out to be above my pay grade. Particularly since
I included the optional picots! I see that IOLI library has the PN book so I
will borrow it when I return. Not sure why I didn’t see Alex’s books in
their catalog (??) as it’s always good to review technically perfect lace
with a fine finish! Thank you for pointing out the fluffy finishes in Anne
Buck’s book. I just finished reading it plus still need to plow thru A
Celebration of Bedfordshire—Thomas Lester & Suffolk Lace by Nicky
Howener-Townsend so I can return all books before I go. The idea of the mini
ornaments appeals to me because it will give me more opportunities to practice
starting & finishing plus they will be useful on my tree or as gifts. With
only a few loose threads at the bottom, perhaps I can darn in the ends rather
than knot off. Thanks again for your suggestions. Sincerely, Susan Hottle FL
USA

Sent from my iPad

> On Mar 31, 2019, at 9:26 AM, Leonard Bazar <leonard...@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
>
> Dear Susan
>
> Alexandra Stillwell's 'All about making Geometrical Bucks Point Lace' sets
out methods, with very clear written explanations and diagrams, on pages
114-6.
>
> I was taught a slightly different method of adding by the late great
Marjorie Carter. You hang the new pair on a pin behind the work, bring it down
between the two headside passive pairs, then work the inside pair out through
the new one, the other old one, and work the picot with it.

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