Miriam wrote:

When I was in Malta in May and took the lace course there we only  
used rayon threads. Since silk has become too expansive for them   
their lace is  done either in rayon or linen. (Karen correct me if  
I'm wrong). Also the lace sold at the tourist centers was rayon.  It  
wasn't easy to work with it at the beginning because the Maltese  
bobbins we were given were rather rough and not well finished and the  
rayon got caught on them.

Yes, this is perfectly true.  We've been using artificial silk here  
for a long time.  Most visitors think of Maltese lace as being heavy  
silk with fat leaves and so  they expect to see silk and are often  
disappointed to see linen.  There are some lacemakers who still have  
real silk, and often much finer than the one normally seen in tourist  
shops, but it is only used for really special occasion lace and  
guarded judiciously.  We also still use cotton, cotton and silk being  
the traditional materials for Maltese lace, linen only arriving in  
the middle of the 19th century.  I think the reason linen has become  
so popular is that it is a lot easier to get hold of than anything  
else because so many other countries use it and there is quite a wide  
range of qualities imported.  The price doesn't seem to match the  
quality though!!

As far as the bobbins are concerned, again, yes, they are quite  
rough.  We always sand them down before using them and I sometimes  
varnish them.  Traditionally, of course, they were rubbed in unwashed  
sheep's fleece to oil them.  It's not so easy or convenient to get  
hold of a fleece these days - although a few of my neighbours still  
keep sheep for cheese!!!

Knots??!!  Knots??!!  In lace??!!  Why ever would anyone need to have  
knots when it is so easy to weave in new threads and sew in old ones  
when using thread as thick as this.  The only time a good Maltese  
lacemaker may have knots is when joining pieces together and, as  
Leonard points out, the  thread used for joining often does not stand  
the test of time anything like as well as the one used for making the  
lace.

Margaret
making Maltese lace on Gozo

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