Hi gentlemen, Following up on an older story here, just to clarify that the bolt/ setscrew type needed to free up the MT2 taper piece in the headstock is definitely 5/16" UNC - good guess Tim. It took me a while to find a source for imperial (standard) fixings over here in Ireland, but managed to find a classic car parts stockist in England - everything imperial - excellent!! Having got my hands on the bolt, I have yet to try removing my taper piece as my workshop is something akin to a scrap yard to look at as I am in the process of rearranging the shop layout- the previous layout was not working for me, and now I have table saws, thicknessers, drill presses etc blocking my way to the OM. However, that said, I managed to stretch over all that and reach the headstock and at least the bolt fits. However, in addition to your idea Tim I would recommend either oiling or greasing up both the inside and outside of the taper before prying out with the bolt. Get your hands on the pressurised oil or grease cans that come with the thin length of plastic tube that allows you to direct the spray into tight spaces - this will allow you to direct a spray of oil/grease inside the 5/16 thread of the headstock directly onto the join of the taper/headstock from the inside. I definitely intend doing this when I get a chance to move everything back into place and give myself a bit of space.
Craig On Jul 22, 1:28 pm, Tim Rinehart <trineh...@carolina.rr.com> wrote: > Well, as some of you know, I just got a used 1200 while visiting > family down in Fl...go figure. They knew I wasn't right, as I take a > mini-lathe with me when I go to visit.. ;-D > > I had alot of cleanup to do with the lead screws having surface > rust...but now are pretty much good as new. Went over everything and > cleaned up, removing the tail center and headstock piece to clean up > rust as well. The piece that engages the #2MT in the headstock (with > 4 slots in it) was seized up. I sprayed with WD40, heated it, and > gently tapped it with a hammer and chisel to try and remove. Finally > ended up breaking the weld on the plate to tenon joint. Not a big > deal, have a small MIG to fix uh-ohs. > > If any of you ever have that part seize up, here's a thought on > removing...what I ended up having to do. Take a piece of steel rod, > slightly smaller than the threads on the end where the gear or crank > would go, and size the length to make it just deep enough to still > leave a good 1/2 to 3/4 inch of thread left. Using a bolt of same > size (I think this was 5/16 " UNC thread...but not sure off hand), use > it to leverage against the stuck piece in the 2MT taper. The > mechanical advantage posed by the threads was enough to break the > joint loose. Note...you have to know however, when you're on verge of > damaging threads...which would take a bit of force with that many > threads engaged...but still possible. > > Anyway, what I really wanted to say...I did my first rounding of a > blank and cutting of a 3-start rope in a piece of 1 3/4" diam wood. > It came out very nice, and helped gel in my mind the process. > Tonight, will play with a plunge bit....or perhaps get out the rotary > table...hmmm....or both. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mi...@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
