Hi Tim
What happened to the pictures and the rest of this book? Your articles and
ideas are to the same excellent standards as your add-on for the Legacy.
Please keep up the good work so that when I retire and have time to turn and
use my Legacy I will have plenty of inspiration.
Best regards
Roger

-----Original Message-----
From: legacy-ornamental-mills+bnccktrtvexcxd3rlnobboek0j...@googlegroups.com
[mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills+bnccktrtvexcxd3rlnobboek0j...@googlegroups.c
om] On Behalf Of Tim Krause
Sent: 19 December 2010 19:04
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Subject: Re: Question about turning pens on Legacy

Hi Steve and all,

There is a fine balance between ornamental plain patterns and grain
features.  For plain patterns, I make sure the lines are crisp so the light
reflects off of each surface and highlights the wood.  I will use tiny
details to create reflections and shadows.  Now on the other side of the
scale, if the wood is boring and plain, I like to make the turnings more
radical with spirals and a lot of index cuts to let the form take over the
design.

One exception to the rule is heavily spalted or oddly colored woods such as
Zebrawood.  In that case large heavy beads and coves really make the colors
and grain patterns show up with deep cuts.  They create curved lines on the
surface of the beads that are fascinating to look at.

Here's some other examples for fancy pens on the legacy that come to mind.

1. Use the legacy to hold a pen blank and cut three flat tapers.  Now glue
in a laminated piece of wood that is made up of two or more contrasting
colors to replace the missing wood. Let it dry really well and cut off the
excess stock and turn the pen to a simple cylinder.  You will end up with a
multi colored pen with scallops on three sides.  This is a pool cue
technique that I'm sure has been done on pens before but the legacy is
suited for the job.

2.   Load a pen blank and take a 1/8" or smaller cutter and cut flat
bottomed grooves that go the length of the barrel to almost the depth of the
mandrel hole.  Use an odd number like three or five grooves.  Then inlay
three strips of veneer (one color in the center and a contrasting color on
the outer layers) in the grooves and turn a simple pen with a couple of
beads and coves to show the inlays are not just surface deep.  You will get
a look like it's segmented but it's not. The curve section will create arcs
in the inlays.

3. You can take this idea further and make mini feature rings with this
technique by cross cutting sections of the inlayed stock and then slice and
dice your pen blank and insert the feature rings and glue the blank
together.  Again turn a simple shape to let the feature ring speak in place
creating fancy turned objects.

4. Yet another idea, take a pen blanks and make 6 index cuts that are 1/8"
wide but not too deep.  You don't want the bottoms to touch each other.  Now
insert contrasting colored wood inlays in each cut and let the glue dry.
Now cut a simple round shape.  If done right, you will end up with a dot,
dash pattern going around the pen.  Can we see a trend here.  The legacy is
used to hold the blank and make cuts that are not easy to do with
traditional tools and it will make other pen makers think you did something
really complicated.

5. To me, the acrylic blanks would really speak volumes if they had more
large flats to show the swirled patterns in the plastic.  The acrylic could
also be used as feature rings where two thirds of the material is wood and a
third is acrylic.  It's a classic proportion.  Again a rather simple turning
should be used to let the acrylic design really pop.

That's just some food for thought.  I sure would like to see some people run
with these ideas and refine them.  If you make a million bucks with these
ideas, you will owe me a thanks, a pen, and some credit for getting you on
your way :-)

-Tim

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "SteveEJ" <s.jacobs0...@gmail.com>
To: "Legacy Ornamental Mills" <legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com>
Sent: Saturday, December 18, 2010 10:30 PM
Subject: Re: Question about turning pens on Legacy


I have used a 1/2 inch two flute straight cutter and spiral cut blood
wood from the side. After that was complete I placed the parts on a
lathe and cleaned up the ends before polishing. It turned out very
nice. Same rule, offset the X axis -0.5 inches for each pass for the
spirals. Next I will try it on acrylic.

I will be looking at other router bit profiles next. Lots of fun but
be sure to use eye protection! And a dust collector too!

Tim, I did a spiral pencil look. It turned out pretty plain. I will
have to try it again with a different bit. It has to be a straight
cutter with a top cut in order to stay flat.

Steve

On Dec 18, 7:01 pm, "Tim Krause" <artmarb...@comcast.net> wrote:
> Famous disclaimer, I don't make pens but, if I where to, I would consider
a
> straight body with a tight diamond pattern for one example. Another
> example, I would exploit the indexing capabilities and use a template to
> make contoured multi-sided pens ( like a pencils but with style). Another
> example is to use maybe a 3" pitch and create a pen that has six sides
with
> flat twists if that makes any sense. I also like the idea of small coves
on
> a tapered body. That would give you teardrops. There's so many things
> that could be done but I rarely see. Does that help any?
>
> Another thing I just thought of, take a look at Jerry Beall's Pen Wizard
> video (about 30 seconds in) for some more ideas and then just scale them
to
> the legacy
platform.http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXgBPEpWuoQ&feature=channel_page
>
> What Jerry calls a "Guiloche" pattern is more commonly referred to as a
> reciprocated pattern in the Ornamental Turning world. I sell an accessory
> to be able to do this on the legacy. I have never explored the
> possibilities in a small scale, but I'm pretty sure it will work just
fine.http://artscopes.com/legacyornamentalmill/tools/waveattachment/waveat..
.
> Other members of the group have built a similar attachment as well.
>
> -Tim
>
>

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