Hello Everyone. I was asked today if I knew a way of fixing some tair out on some wood turnings a friend of mine had on his project.
I think this could also be a good topic for the Legacy group . The legacy dose have some tare out and or The spindles are not normaly a readily prepared surfaces for finishing right off the machine. There are so many tricks that I have learn.that may help fix some of the small problems that you may run into. I hope these ideas help? Thay are mainly geared twords turning on the lathe. But I normaly sand and finnish on the lathe.I find that the Lathe and the Legacy work very well together. So Please take this with a grain of salt. Hopefully some for this info might be able to help you or someone else out in the future? SO HERE WE GO! ;-) As I see it there are a number of reasons why tare out happens,most come form not having a sharp enough tools or cutting to deep on a final pass (I had this problem a lot on the Legacy,in my early years.) Not watching the direction of the woods grain can also be another reasion for the tair out. very light cuts will help on the final passes. if the wood is cracked or pungie or just wild running grain like around knots there may be no way to get around this problem but. I like to use CA glue to firm up the wood then re-cut or sand is possible. Oil finishes are more forgiving if you have open grained woods. A friend of mine likes to make his own sanding sealer, with Shellac and oil, mixing it with the sanding dust of the wood. (sorta like French polishing,) the sanding dust combined with the shellac and oil fill in the open wood grain. I've used Plaster of Paris and spackling compound in the past with good results.large idoms like my Mook Jongs I like to use Spackling conpound.( remember I normaly make my Martail art dummys out of plywood that Ive turner on my Legacy, The plywood has lots of opened voids and grain tair out...) I let the spackleing conpound dry, sand and seal. Its very easy! Ive never had any problems useing this tenique on the dummys. As a general rule of thumb, using the idioms own saw dust normally work well if you use the same sealer as your bonding agent. example saw dust and Shellac mixed into a putty to fill in the crack or void,Let dry and sand. will work well if you use Shellac as your finishing coat. but if you use glue and saw dust, and then seal with oil or poly. the patch may show up afterwards. CA glue and saw dust work well for small cracks. For bowls that have tair out, you could try to sand with steel wool and a film forming oil, sand well , let air dry before sanding again and seal the bowl. Oil and CA glue also work nice.(but it dose take some skill to use.I will write on how to do that one latter.) Oil and wax also work well for high shine finishes. I also like Hut turnings wax. I use that on the arm of my dummys only. that stuff is baby bottom smooth, wares like iron. and is easy to fix. Here are two resp. have worked well for me in the past. It cant hurt to try them for your self.And or shair the info with others. I got them from http://eddiecastelin.com Sanding Wax By Eddie Castelin This wax and technique was introduced to me by Master Turner Eli Avisera during a class at Arrowmont in the summer of 2007. Eli used this wax for almost all his sanding needs, especially fine turnings, exotics and those very delicate finials he is so famous for. After using the wax, he coated the pieces with a shellac finish followed by Renaissance Wax for a fantastic finish. Ingredients: 2- 8 ounce bottles of regular mineral oil (drugstore item) 1 - 1 lb. block of pure bees wax from Michael's Arts and Crafts, Hobby Lobby, etc. 2-3 each 2- gallon Zip-Lok bags 1 package of Zip-Lok disposable closeable or reseal able containers (1 pint size) Equipment: 1 stainless steel mixing bowl (Wal-Mart $4.00) 1 pot boiling water Boil a pot of water and place the stainless steel mixing bowl, full of chunks of the bees was in it, floating on the top of the water. Allow the bowl to warm the wax slowly, without burning or changing the molecular make-up of the wax. Bees wax melts at less than 200 degrees so the boiling water will melt it slowly. As soon as it is about 90% melted, remove it from the water and set on counter. Allow to stand for just a moment and before it begins to gel, stir in the first bottle of mineral oil. Mix thoroughly and allow to cool. Using the 2 gallon Zip-Lok bags, scoop a portion (1/3) of the cooled mixture into the bag and add about 1/3 of the remaining bottle of oil to the bag. Knead the two products together until you have something about the consistency of cake icing. Clip off the corner of the bag and squeeze the contents into the pint sized containers. Get it all out, don't waste the wax. Repeat until batch is complete. This product will not freeze, or dry out. It last for years. Make a batch and share it with your turning buddies. \ O.B.'s Shine Juice By Capt. Eddie Castelin Several years ago I attended a demonstration where the turner was making a little bottle stopper project called the "hidden pill" stopper. He turned a piece of cocobolo and then sanded it using wax as a lubricant. I hadn't seen this method before and I had created some nice work with cocobolo and just didn't get the right finish. I thought it was the secret to a great finish until he pulled out this little squeeze bottle of finish and proceeded to put a glass finish on it. The turner was O.B. Lacoste of Lafayette and he soon became one of my mentors. The product he used was a mixture of shellac, boiled linseed oil and alcohol. We came to call this concoction "O.B.'s Shine Juice". Ingredients: 3 ounces of plain, uncolored shellac. (Zinsser's Bulls Eye Shellac, Clear) 3 ounces of Boiled Linseed Oil. (Do not boil plain linseed oil) 3 ounces of Denatured Alcohol (do not use any other alcohol product) I use a pint sized mason jar for mixing and long term storage of the materials. Pour exact amounts into the Mason jar and mix thoroughly. Do not over agitate. Pour a day's use into a small squeeze bottle (Harbor Freight # 94392-OVGA) for use. Note: The alcohol will evaporate from open containers and the squeeze bottle. Return what you don't use to the mason jar for a pure finish. I have to run.Its past my bed time. (work tomorrow!) I will talk to you all more latter. Let me know what you think? and as always if you or anyone have any suggestions I for one would like to hear them. "ONLY A FOOL Thinks he knows everything" And I hate to play the fool.So please help me learn as much as I can? ;-) Have a good night everyone. C.A.G. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. To unsubscribe from this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. For more options, visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills?hl=en.
