yes you did read correctly that's what I meant get a second drive hub for the
wood lathe mine is the same Morse taper on both.
same thread too for the chuck
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From: CURTIS GEORGE
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 10:48 PM
Subject: Re: Centering Mounting Hubs
Hello Bill
I am at work now but I have a few min. before...
I made a jig this morning that I will take pictures of and send to the group
this evening.
But If I read your message correctly about adapting the spindle for use on
the legacy, I highly recemend to everyone
to make an adaptor or buy a second drive hub adaptor for your lathe.
From my experances When I remove the hub from the spindle
you will never get it on the same way again ,to make it true to the centeral
axis.(there will always be some kind of play in it.)
For sanding on the Lathe I just switch the spindle back and forth from the
Legacy to the lathe and back when need be.
A good friend of mine. told me a long time ago, the make sure everything you
own should be fully adaptable.( all parts should be same, It will save a lot of
time in the long run.)
both my Shopsmith and Legacy both have a 1-8 threaded adaptor on them so I
can use the same equipment on both machines. It realy dose help.
I have to go.
talk to you after work.
C.A.G.
----- Original Message -----
From: Bill Bulkeley <bulke...@mmnet.com.au>
To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sun, 29 Jan 2012 03:57:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: Re: Centering Mounting Hubs
what if you made a pin with a step 1/4 to say 3/8
and drilled the 3/8 end with a center drill, then you could have a hub each
end
and be able to turn it around as often as needed, and also put a drive hub
in the wood lathe so you could do work in the lathe too with the same set
up.
I know sanding is much easier the
lathe
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From:Tim
Krause
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 5:15
PM
Subject: Re: Centering Mounting
Hubs
If you put a 1/4" hole on both sides of the stock they would become the
centers. Then you could swap the hub to both sides. The hole would
still seat fine on the cone center of the tailstock. That's my humble
opinion.
-Tim
----- Original Message -----
From:Bill
Bulkeley
To:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Saturday, January 28, 2012 9:56
PM
Subject: Re: Centering Mounting
Hubs
looks good as always Tim can you make a way of
having one each end with a center hole for the tail stock and be able
to end for end the work and still have it running true each
time
Bill
----- Original Message -----
From:Tim
Krause
To:Legacy-Ornamental-Mills@googlegroups.com
Sent: Sunday, January 29, 2012 2:12
PM
Subject: Centering Mounting
Hubs
Hello All,
This is an old topic, but I think I've made a micro step forward in
the option that I'm about to discuss. One of the tips for centering
the drive hub is to place a countersink in the center hole of the
drive
hub. Then you can install a screw in the center first and then
install the rest of the screws in the mounting hub. This keeps the
center from wandering when you are installing the other screws.
Another idea for a close to guaranteed center that is repeatable is
to use a 1/4" dowel pin pressed into one of the drive hubs. This is
done by drilling and reaming an undersized hole (.249") in the center
of
the drive hub. Next a 1/4" - 3/4" dowel pin is pressed in the
center. It looks like this.
Now I realize not everyone has access to an undersized reamer so an
alternative to making a press fit is to use what is known as a split
pin. These pins will expand in the hole. Just drill a 1/4"
hole in your drive hub and hammer a split pin ( also know as spring
pins) in the hole. Here's an example of the pin.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#split-pins/=g0d1lg
Now that a dowel pin is in the center of the hub, you can use
this to align the stock. Simply drill a 1/4" hole in the end of your
stock and insert the hub onto you stock and pre-drill the rest of the
holes for the screws. The pin will hold the hub in the center
of the wood and not shift if your screws are not going in straight.
Speaking of screws, I like to use #10 pan head sheet metal
screws. The OD is very close to the holes in the hubs.
If you don't know what I'm referring to, here's an example site that
shows
the screws. This is not a product endorsement.
http://www.boltdepot.com/Sheet_metal_screws_Phillips_pan_head_Stainless_steel_18-8_10.aspx
Another basic thing I will add is your hubs should have one tab
marked and a corresponding mark on your drive hub so the stock can be
removed and placed back in the OM in the same place. If you are
going to be removing the drive hubs and then remounting them you
would
want to mark your wood as well. I don't have pictures of this, but I
hope it makes sense.
If you need even more accuracy I have another idea for mounting
stock, but it's one of those tips that you might not use very often.
It involves a chuck and making some tenons to hold your stock before
they
get mounted in your machine. I can expand on this if anyone is
interested.
Question or comment are appreciated, and I hope this is not too
simple of a tip for the group members. I sure would like to hear
from some lurking asking questions so we know where we need to go
over
some details in the future. There are quite a few new members that
are all looking for information on how to use their mills and still
very
few questions are getting asked.
-Tim
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