Very very well done shop made rotary table I really like it Bill
From: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com [mailto:legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com] On Behalf Of Dexter Bland Sent: Tuesday, 13 January 2015 12:51 PM To: legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com Subject: Making Rosettes I was tasked with making a set of book cases for a friend and had the design kinda worked out in my head of what I wanted to do, but could not find something to "top off" some fluted trim that will be used to cover the joints between the cabinet sections (4 sections with each 39" wide and 10.5' tall). I was looking on the Legacy webpage of photos of things others have made and saw some rosettes that were used to adorn some wainscoting in a dining room. That solved the problem of finding a rosette just the size that I would need, I would make it. The following is the process of making the index table to make them and making the rosettes themselves. First - Glue a sandwich of 1/4" hardboard and 1/2" plywood. One hardboard layer on each side. Photos 1190 & 1191 Second - Drill hole in center of blank. Use drill press to get a truly vertical hole. Otherwise, the blank will wobble once mounted in machine. Photo 1192 Third - Cut out shape with whatever you have; bandsaw, jigsaw, router with circle cutting jig. It doesn't need to be perfect at this stage, just fit between the rails on your machine. Use your flat planing bit to true up blank. Photos 1193 1194 Fourth - Use one of the index plates you already have to cut index notches in your just made disk. I used a v-grove bit to create the "teeth" on the disk. Photos 1195, 1196 1197 Fifth- Mount disk on board and make "index stop" for your disk. I tapered the block on both ends so there would be a snug fit. Photo 1198 I used the index lines on the disk to line up the block that was going to use. I screwed this scrap block to the disk and then screwed "holder" blocks down so the next block would be positioned just the same as the previous one. I used wedges to secure the block so it wouldn't move out of place. Photo 1199. I used a 1/2" round nose router bid and cut just 0.14" deep. Positioned the bit 5/16" from the center to create the "button" in the middle and cut from the center to the outside then rotated the disk counter-clockwise. This is important to get a cleaner cut. Photo 1200 shows a test piece that had some tear-out due to cutting the wrong direction. This one, I also cut around the outside that gave it a raised appearance. That was not what I was looking for, so I just cut the middle. Comments, suggestions.... We'll see if the photos come thru. I have not posted photos here for a while. DB -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at http://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
