HDPE is a little soft. Over on another machinist form that I'm on people have heated a lead screw and pressed acetal (delrin) around the screw to form threads. It takes multiple heating attempts and practice.
Sent from BlueMail On Aug 3, 2017, 9:23 AM, at 9:23 AM, MWF <mwfos...@earthlink.net> wrote: >Hello all, >I am not sure how well a split nut made from HDPE will hold up - but >here is my 2-cents' worth: >HDPE (Look on bottom of plastic jugs, bottles, etc for the Recycle >symbol w/the #2) is the only plastic that I know of that we can >"re-purpose" at home. >Do an Internet/BING search for this - you'll be amazed. > >I find that the plastic Folgers and Maxwell House coffee canisters are >labeled #2 - as are most milk jugs. The two coffee brands yield red >and blue plastic respectively. >My thought is that you embed a matching Acme rod into the mold you melt >the #2 plastic in. Once cooled, you should be able to "unscrew" the rod >from the plastic billet. You then cut/machine the billet to the >exterior measurements you need and then split it down the center line. >"Machining" can be done with your router, bandsaw, etc. > >Does anyone have an idea of how well the #2 plastic (HDPE) will hold >up? Even if it wears down after 6 months of use - you will be able to >reuse that worn out piece, with some added #2 plastic, and melt/mold a >new piece. If your mold & billet is long enough, you can produce a >year's-worth in one mold. > >If anyone tries this - or something similar, please share pictures and >results. > >Mac >_____________________________________________ >_____________________________________________ > >-----Original Message----- >From: 'joe biunno' via Legacy Ornamental Mills >Sent: Aug 3, 2017 10:00 AM >To: Legacy Ornamental Mills >Subject: Re: Wood Chuck Tour by Mike Pung > >i'll offer an opinion here, as this could have been a problem for me on >my recently acquired 1500...the problem is, due to the action/movement >of the lead screw, the threads in the split nut wear sideways, >especially when using a drive motor...think of each cross section of >thread as a square(see photo)...I measured the cross section of the >thread(in a new nut) to be .140" wide...in the photo of the worn nut, >that same dimension is down to .065...so you could say the thread went >from 1/8" full(new) to 1/16"...and sanding the nut down is not going to >improve the function of the nut, in my opinion...maybe early on you can >sand the nut to get a bit more life out of it, but that's it...the key >to solving this problem is finding the 5/8-4 acme thread tap...once you >have the tap, to make a new split nut is somewhat simple...and anyone >who has that "hinged" split nut, I would swap that out and set up a >sliding split nut...much more problematic to make that hinged split >nut...so, if any member knows where to get that tap, here or overseas, >please let the group know...I certainly would like to purchase >one...barring that, I would also attempt to make a tap from some acme, >threaded rod, if I had to...and the casting idea is also an excellent >idea...joe b. > >-- >You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google >Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. >To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send >an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. >To post to this group, send email to >legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. >Visit this group at >https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. >For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout. -- You received this message because you are subscribed to the Google Groups "Legacy Ornamental Mills" group. To unsubscribe from this group and stop receiving emails from it, send an email to legacy-ornamental-mills+unsubscr...@googlegroups.com. To post to this group, send email to legacy-ornamental-mills@googlegroups.com. Visit this group at https://groups.google.com/group/legacy-ornamental-mills. For more options, visit https://groups.google.com/d/optout.
