From

http://www.washingtonpost.com/wp-dyn/world/americas/A29550-2000Oct27.html

Cuba Begins to Answer Its Race Question


By Eugene Robinson
Washington Post Staff Writer
Sunday, November 12, 2000; Page A01


HAVANA -- Maria del Carmen Cano, a scholar at the Cuban Institute of the
Book, studies race in Cuba. For years that was an obscure and lonely task,
but now people are beginning to pay attention. To illustrate why, she tells
a story about her husband.


He is tall and very dark-skinned. Not long ago, on a day off from work, he
was making his way through a downtown Havana neighborhood in shorts, tennis
shoes and T-shirt, a bulging knapsack slung over his shoulder--he was taking
the family's computer to be repaired. Approaching from the opposite
direction was a white man, also in sneakers and T-shirt and shorts, also
toting a full knapsack. They crossed paths right in front of one of the
policemen who stand, sphinxlike, on Havana's busy street corners.


The officer stopped Cano's husband and demanded to see his identity papers,
letting the white man pass without a second look.


When the policeman learned that he had just detained a lieutenant colonel in
the Cuban military, he was effusively apologetic. "But from then on," Cano
says, "my husband had a greater appreciation for my work."


Breaking a long-standing taboo on discussing Cuban society in racial terms,
scholars and even officials here are delving into issues of race, racism,
racial stereotypes and stubborn patterns of discrimination. They have found,
as Cano says, that "it's unrealistic to assume that a good communist or a
good revolutionary can't also be a racist."


Black Cubans, by any material or educational measure, have made great
advances in the past four decades, their progress often cited by officials
as one of the signal accomplishments of President Fidel Castro's revolution.
As one example, officials report that in this country of 11 million people,
there are more than 13,000 black physicians; by comparison, in the United
States, with a black population four times as large, the 1990 census counted
just over 20,000 black doctors, according to the leading U.S. association of
black physicians.


Intermarriage between whites and blacks is commonplace in Cuba. Race
relations, especially among individuals, are much more relaxed and amicable
than in U.S. neighborhoods--and unlike in the United States, virtually all
Cuban neighborhoods are racially integrated.


But many young Afro-Cubans--those too young to remember what things were
like before the revolution--contend that a form of structural racism exists
in Cuba, and that it is getting worse.


The Cuban version of the "New Economy" is based not on computers or the
Internet but rather on tourism, which is growing by leaps and bounds while
the rest of the Cuban economy languishes. Young blacks say they are
underrepresented on the staffs of the big new five-star hotels and the
ancillary service businesses springing up around Havana, the Varadero beach
resort and other major cities. In today's Cuba, with the economy
substantially "dollarized," those with access to tourists--and the dollars
they spend--form a kind of new elite, and this elite of waitresses, doormen,
tour guides and cab drivers appears much whiter than Cuba as a whole.


The government's position, famously expressed by Cuba's independence hero
Jose Marti, is that race does not matter, that "we are all Cubans." But to
scholars, including those who remain fully committed to the revolution, some
worrisome racial issues have become self-evident.


Academics say that black Cubans are failing to earn university degrees in
proportion to their numbers--a situation to which Castro has alluded
publicly. The upper echelons of the government remain disproportionately
white, despite the emergence of several rising black stars. And while
perceptions are difficult to quantify, much less prove true or false, many
black Cubans are convinced that they are much less likely than whites to
land good jobs--and much more likely to be hassled by police on the street,
like Cano's husband, in a Cuban version of "racial profiling."


Even the most outspoken critics of the way the government has handled, or
ignored, the issue of race in Cuba do not believe the racial problems here
are as acute or widespread as in the United States. They share the worry of
Cuban officials that foreign observers will oversimplify the situation,
seeing it in stark terms of black and white when the more appropriate image
is a spectrum of beiges and browns.


Several black Cubans interviewed for this article were especially anxious
that reports of Cuba's racial problems not be seized on by the Cuban
American community in Miami, which is overwhelmingly white--and which was
founded by a core of people who made up much of Cuba's pre-revolution white
elite. Many here question whether there would have been such hubbub in Miami
over Elian Gonzalez had the boy been black instead of white.


"There is a feeling that to talk about this issue is to divide the unity
that is necessary to face American imperialism," said Tomas Fernandez
Robaina, senior researcher at the Jose Marti National Library and a
preeminent scholar on race. But he added, "In many places, blacks have more
problems getting a job than white people. I'm not telling you a secret."


Recently Castro has acknowledged lingering traces of racial discrimination,
using a speech last year to pin the blame on racist attitudes introduced
during the U.S. occupation of Cuba following the Spanish-American War.


His brother, Vice President Raul Castro, the second most powerful man in
Cuba, tackled the subject in March, in a speech that black Cubans still
remember and parts of which they cite verbatim. He used a more down-to-earth
example that people could relate to their everyday lives: If a hotel denies
entry to a person because he is black, he said, then the hotel should be
shut.


When black Cubans gather, the topic of racism readily emerges. But the
government does not permit clubs, associations or movements based on race;
there is no NAACP in Cuba, nor would one be allowed.


Cuban race relations are thus conducted on the individual level, and because
of cultural factors they lack the element of confrontation. This is a nation
where a man can refer to his dark-skinned girlfriend as "mi negra," or "my
black woman," without giving it a thought or raising any hackles. It is a
society where friends can tease each other about how dark their skin is and
no one takes offense; where a tan-skinned woman can casually say of a party
she attended, "Oh, there were a lot of negros there, so I left," and no one
seems uncomfortable or embarrassed. Cubans love to laugh, love to employ
their well-developed sense of irony.


"There is an important difference between our two countries," said Alexis
Esquivel, an artist who has helped organize groundbreaking exhibitions here
on the theme of race. "In the United States, you can't joke about race, not
at all, but you can talk about it seriously. Here in Cuba, you can joke
about race all you want. But you can't talk about it seriously."

Cuba's Racial History



Cuba has a familiar history of slavery and emancipation, but also a history
of widespread intermarriage. The result is that racial lines are not nearly
so clearly drawn, or so immutably fixed, as in the United States. There has
not been a census since 1980-81, and at that time a majority of Cubans
identified themselves as white. Most Cuban scholars discount that result,
estimating that the Cuban population is between 60 percent and 70 percent
black or mulatto (mixed-race). They also question the usefulness of official
government statistics on race that are based on that census.


Cubans reserve the term "black" for people with very dark skin and kinky
hair. Many African Americans who consider themselves black would be called
mulatto in Cuba, and some--with light skin and straight hair--would be
called white. The pre-revolution racial hierarchy put whites on the top,
blacks on the bottom and mulattos somewhere in between; the revolution ended
all official discrimination, but as in virtually every country with a
history of slavery, traces remain.


"The economic crisis has taken the lid off," said researcher Cano. "Now
there is new space for racist attitudes to exist."


She referred to the implosion of the Cuban economy following the dissolution
of the Soviet Union and the Eastern Bloc, which ended a lifeline of
subsidies and eliminated the only viable markets for Cuban goods. The early
1990s were desperate years in Cuba, a time when people accustomed to a
reasonable standard of living were suddenly hungry, when gasoline was in
short supply and power outages were a daily occurrence. The government calls
it the "Special Period"--and although the situation has greatly improved,
Castro has not yet declared it at an end.


The crisis exacerbated tensions, and many black Cubans began to feel that in
this egalitarian society, they were getting the short end of the stick.
After Castro made it legal to possess and spend dollars, remittances from
overseas relatives eased the pain for some Cubans. But since so many of the
Cubans in Miami and elsewhere who could afford to send money home were
white, the relatives on the receiving end in Cuba also tended to be white.


During the leanest years there were episodes of unrest. The worst came in
the summer of 1994 along the seafront in Central Havana, a neighborhood that
happens to have a high percentage of black residents. Crowds took to the
streets and police officers came under attack. It did not qualify as a race
riot, but arguably was the closest thing post-revolution Cuba had seen.


The turmoil prompted Castro to allow a limited safety-valve exodus of
rafters to set out for Florida--the first mass departure in which there were
substantial numbers of blacks as well as whites.


The conventional wisdom to that point had been that blacks were among
Castro's most faithful and avid supporters--beneficiaries of both concrete
benefits and memorable gestures, from Castro's legendary choice to stay in
Harlem during his first New York visit to his decision to send thousands of
Cuban troops to faraway wars in Africa. Shortly after the 1994 disturbances,
the government accelerated a move to promote young, activist black officials
to key posts, even inviting them into the inner circle.


The Communist Party leader in Havana city, Esteban Lazo, is black, as is the
party leader for Havana province, Pedro Saez.


Blacks also hold the top party posts in Santiago, Cuba's second-largest
city, and Camaguey, as well as leading positions in several other party
organs.


It is unclear, though, the extent to which these brash, can-do officials
have convinced black Cubans that the government is addressing their concerns
about race.


In Santiago, a young black man named Lazaro--he did not want his last name
used--spoke of how he admired black leaders in the United States, like Jesse
L. Jackson.


Asked who were the black leaders in Cuba, he gave a sardonic smile.


"Look, man," he said. "In Cuba, there's only one leader."

Carving Cultural Space



"The first thing you're accused of when you do work like this," said artist
Alexis Esquivel, fingering his long dreadlocks, "is that you're doing
something to damage the image of Cuba."


"Work like this" means the exhibitions that Esquivel, 31, and a group of
Cuban artists, black and white, organized on the theme of race in Cuba. The
first was called "Keloids," a reference to the raised scars that form when
African skin is wounded.


One artist, Manuel Arenas, showed two paintings that dealt with black
Cubans' experience in the streets--one titled "Look Out, There's a Black
Man," and the other titled "ID Card" and showing a black man, set against
the national emblem, opening his identity card as if to show it to a
policeman. Another artist, Rene Pena, played against the stereotype of the
Cuban black man as sexually voracious with a photograph of a black man's
nude torso in which the penis is replaced by a knife blade.


Esquivel's work in this show, mounted at the Center for Development of the
Visual Arts, centered on the soga--a rope that was used long ago at dances
and other functions to separate blacks from whites. The soga is a theme he
returns to again and again, sometimes installing a rope high in a gallery so
that only the observant notice it, sometimes using the rope as a barrier,
sometimes tying rope tightly around his face like a horse's bridle--or an
instrument of bondage.


To Esquivel's surprise, the exhibition was reviewed in the official
Communist Party newspaper Granma. The review was generally positive, if
somewhat cool, but the significant thing was that the show was acknowledged
at all. Esquivel went on to help mount a second "Keloids" exhibition.


Esquivel's own history is instructive. A mulatto by Cuban standards, he grew
up in a small town in the interior. His artistic talent was recognized and
he was sent to another province, Pinar del Rio, to attend a special school.
Almost all of his classmates were white, and to hear him talk of the
experience is like listening to a young black man talk about how he felt
going to St. Albans or Sidwell Friends.


"I had to suppress my musical tastes," he said. "I liked traditional music,
music you could dance to, but my friends were all into rock. I was
conflicted."


"People would say something like, 'Those blacks, they're horrible.' Then
they'd turn to me and say, 'Oh no, Alexis, we're not talking about you,
you're fine.' Imagine what that does to a person."


He recalls the moment of his radicalization: For an assignment in school, he
read "The Autobiography of Malcolm X." From that point, he identified
himself as black.


"I remember going home on a visit," he said, "and telling my mother not to
use hair straightener anymore."


Esquivel's partner in putting on the exhibitions was a Cuban art historian,
Ariel Ribeaux, who wrote the manifesto for this gathering movement of
black-themed art. Ribeaux's award-winning essay was entitled "Neither
Musicians Nor Athletes."


That title was a comment on the space that blacks traditionally occupied in
Cuban society, praised for their athletic prowess--Fidel Castro himself went
out to the airport to greet Cuba's returning Olympic athletes, most of whom
were black or brown--and their contributions to broadly defined Cuban
"culture," especially religion and music.


Black Cubans have begun to use that cultural space to express racial pride
and to comment on their position in the society.


The Afro-Cuban religion that most Americans know as santeria, but that most
believers in Havana call "the Yoruba religion," recently was allowed to open
a cultural center in an airy downtown building near the pre-revolution
capitol. Rafael Robaina, a researcher at the Center of Anthropology who
specializes in the religion, calls it "the only black organization that we
have in Cuba."


Antonio Castaneda, president of the Yoruba Cultural Center, says the
building, with its museum devoted to the Afro-Cuban saints, is "a bastion in
defense of black people, a source of pride." Castro helped fund the $2
million project by instructing banks to lend the necessary money for
construction.


In music, meanwhile, young Cuban songwriters slip in sly lyrics about skin
color, about unemployment, about racism. At a recent performance by the
popular group NG La Banda, for example, the singer added a line about a
black man being stopped by police on the street.


In a bit of commentary that would do Richard Pryor or Chris Rock proud, the
singer, who is black, used the Cuban slang word that most closely
approximates "nigger."

Walking While Black



That is the one concrete, on-the-ground issue that almost all black Cuban
men, especially young men, can relate to: being halted by police and made to
produce their documents. To foreigners, the officers are unfailingly
polite--even if, for example, the foreigner happens to be barreling the
wrong way down a one-way street. But when they are not just standing and
watching, generally they are stopping young men and asking to see their
papers. Anecdotally, but also in the universal opinion of black Cubans, the
men being stopped are more likely to be black than white.


Recall the case of Maria del Carmen Cano's husband, who was stopped in
Havana while an identically dressed white man was allowed to breeze by?
According to Cano, her husband was so indignant that he demanded to know why
he had been singled out. "We were looking for someone with physical
characteristics like yours," the policeman replied.


A few days later, Cano says, she and her husband went to a party where there
were a number of black couples, and he told the story. Everyone laughed.
"Four or five black men there had had the same thing happen to them. And
they had been told the same thing--'We are looking for someone with physical
characteristics like yours.' "


She goes on, "My husband was even more angry. He said, 'If you're going to
lie to me, at least be original.' "




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