Eric T. wrote: > Jim, > There are different types of solar controllers. > Some need a "bypass load" connected (like a 12 volt water heater element), > some do not. > > If you buy a "smart" controller the "input resistance" varies with the > stage of the charge cycle. During "bulk mode" the current is allowed to flow > freely, during "absorption mode" the output voltage is controlled at the > proper voltage for your battery type and (hopefully) the battery > temperature, so the "input resistance" will increase steadily as the battery > approaches full charge. When the charge controller decides to switch to > "float mode" the "input resistance" changes to regulate the output voltage > to the proper voltage for your battery type and (again, hopefully) > temperature. > > Due to the presence of blocking diodes both scenarios are wrong. > If one panel is putting out a lower voltage than the other (maybe partially > shaded or pointed less directly toward the sun) the higher voltage of the > other "parallel" panel will hold the diode in reverse bias and no current > will flow from the panel with the lower voltage. > Unless the panels are very nearly identical, a parallel wiring system will > produce unsatisfactory results. > Luckily, panels of the same size from the same manufacturer and of nearly > the same age will work just fine in a parallel wiring setup. > > > Eric Thompson > Hi, Eric,
That's what I was looking for. Thanks. Jim _______________________________________________ Liveaboard mailing list [email protected] To adjust your membership settings over the web http://www.liveaboardnow.org/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard To subscribe send an email to [email protected] To unsubscribe send an email to [email protected] The archives are at http://www.liveaboardnow.org/pipermail/liveaboard/ To search the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected] The Mailman Users Guide can be found here http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html
