Coax Cable (was VHF anomaly) - almost finished

Hi, All,

Getting close to ordering, I thought this exchange on SSCA's forum might 
shed some light as to the direction I'm leaning -  - sorry that the 
"quote/quote" stuff doesn't show up like in the forums, here:

[quote="Skip Gundlach"][quote="btrayfors"]RG-214. MilSpec. Double braid 
(reduces RFI). Same diameter as RG-8, RG-213, etc. Perfect match for PL-259 
UHF connectors. Not expensive. I'd use nothing else with runs under 100'. 
Great for HF also due to physical and RFI suppresion properties. See 
http://therfc.com/coax.htm[/quote]


Thanks for the link. I'm curious as to why the 214 is 2.3, the 213 1.9, 400 
has (since not delineated, I presume all of the types) 1.2 attenuation over 
100'. Seems to me a silver center on the 214MIL would give better throughput 
(?). The 400 stranded center gives a 1" radius, the UF version has tinned 
copper braid (but the foam dielectric, not so great) - I presume the 214 
would be similar?

Given that 3db is 50%, I'm wondering if 1.2 vs 2.3 is an issue; presumably 
the foam core would be more of an issue, long term?

I apologize for my slow learning curve. It's "make the center 
waterproof/non-absorbent" or "throughput is critical" arguments which have 
me dithering. Certainly, all seem to have adequate shielding, what with 
either tinned or silver-copper braid. Finally, as to this particular vendor, 
do they make up cables, or is it strictly raw stuff? I'm wanting a factory 
end on the mast, but due to size considerations, would make up my inside 
connection after feeding it. Thanks. L8R Skip and crew, currently in 
Abacos[/quote]

Followed by

[quote="btrayfors"]Don't sweat the db difference. Neither you nor anyone 
else will ever notice it!

Yes, The RF Connection can put ends on coax. When you get to putting on your 
end, here's how I do it:

1. cut the outer insulation (not the braid) back 1.5" from the end, and 
remove it; you now have bare braid 1.5" long.

2. tin the braid all around in the area 1" to 1.25" from the end; keep the 
tinning as smooth and thin as possible.

3. using a tube cutter carefully, cut just through both layers of the 
now-tinned braid 1" from the end; then remove the 1" of the tinned braid, 
leaving the center conductor and it's insulation intact.

4. strip the center conductor beginning about 1/8" from the braid; you how 
have a bare center conductor, about 1/8" of insulation showing, and the 
tinned braid.

5. put 1/2" ID x 1" adhesive heat shrink tubing over the coax and slide it 
out of the way.

6. put the screw on shell of the PL-259 connector over the coax and slide it 
out of the way.

7. carefully insert the coax into the PL-259 body, making sure the center 
conductor completely enters the pin, without any wild strands.

8. using considerable strength, screw the PL-259 body onto the outer 
(rubber) layer of coax; you should be able to get a few whole turns; this 
makes for a very tight connection. The center conductor should be extending 
out the end of the pin, and you should be seeing the tinned braid in each of 
the four holes, ready for soldering.

9. solder the center pin, and each of the four holes in turn; clean up any 
excess.

10. screw the outer body onto the PL-259 all the way.

11. slide the heat shrink tubing up over the barrel of the PL-259, leaving 
about 1/8"-3/16" of the body clear; use a heat gun to shrink the tubing over 
the PL-259 barrel and the RG-214 coax. You should have a first-class 
connection.

Yes, it takes time. No good shortcuts. Do it right; it will last many years.

After you've made the coax connection with the PL-259, it's a good idea to 
tape over it in order to further protect it against the marine 
environment.[/quote]

And

[quote="hellosailor"]I would add to Bill's excellent instructions, use 
"Solder-It" paste instead of regular rosin-cored solder. The paste makes it 
very easy to spread and wet out a braid and seems to melt at lower 
temperatures, so that you've got a better chance of making a 100% connection 
without melting any of the insulating layer. Probably $5-6 for a tube, which 
makes it more expensive than solder (and it goes bad, hardens up in about 18 
months on the shelf) but a much more reliable (=cheaper) way to do 
occassional antenna fittings and the like. http://www.solder-it.com 
sometimes available at Radio Shack (check the date) and Lowes but not Home 
Depot.[/quote]

Various venues where this discussion has been taking place have been pretty 
strong 214MilSpec recommenders, but the vendor, with whom I've been in 
contact sez this about the LMR400DB (me ">", his below inline):

> Given the application, I'd think the stranded best, as it tolerates tight
> bends better, no?  However, flooded apparently answers the water issue.
> What's the turn radius on the 400DB?

****installed 1 inch...repeated 4 inch

>
> I certainly like the propagation in the 400 better, but there's a great
> deal of sentiment among those I've been polling to get this far that
> milspec is the way to go.  Aside from the propagation, what would be the
> arguments against vs the flooded 400?

****it is weather tight...RG-213/214 is not!!!!*****

So, given all that, I'm inclined at this point to go his way.  1" turn 
radius certainly is manageable, and I'm not likely to have coils (the 4" 
reference).

This is also pretty affordable - the installed factory end and 80', plus 
another silver body 259 (shell and pin teflon), is all of 82.55 shipped.

I'm also quite happy to take the time to do the indoor termination right.

Do I hear informed arguments against this solution?

Thanks.

L8R

Skip


Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
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"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
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its hand
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Morgan 461 #2
SV Flying Pig KI4MPC
See our galleries at www.justpickone.org/skip/gallery !
Follow us at http://groups.yahoo.com/group/TheFlyingPigLog
and/or http://groups.google.com/group/flyingpiglog

"You are never given a wish without also being given the power to
make it come true. You may have to work for it however."
(and)
"There is no such thing as a problem without a gift for you in
its hand
(Richard Bach) 

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