My "gallon jug" bilge pump switch uses a hardware store household type toggle switch that has a low force action. Spring pulls up, sand ballasted jug pulls down. Works for years. I put the toggle switch in a plastic handi-box with a electronics style booted toggle switch (spdt, center off) in it too for manual control (auto-off-on). Also a red LED to visually tell if the pump is running above the noise of the engine.
TIG rod is handy stuff, comes in 316 and bronze from 1/16" thru 1/4". I have some 1/4" bronze stashed away for skylight grills but the "round-tuit" never showed up... Norm S/V Bandersnatch Lying Julington Creek FL >which solves a large number of reliability problems *and* > lets you use better quality, industrial-duty switches (instead of > whatever the float switch manufacturer sticks you with.) Shallow bilge? > No problem: use a long lever - say, a piece of SS TIG welding rod - and > solder a carburetor float (or even glue a ping-pong ball) to it. Twist a > single loop into the other end of the wire, about an inch from the end, > and put a screw through it and into one of your frames right above the > bilge. Float rises, back end of your "see-saw" comes down... fairly > obvious how to proceed from there, right? > _______________________________________________ Liveaboard mailing list Liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com To adjust your membership settings over the web http://liveaboardonline.com/mailman/listinfo/liveaboard To subscribe send an email to liveaboard-j...@liveaboardonline.com To unsubscribe send an email to liveaboard-le...@liveaboardonline.com The archives are at http://www.liveaboardonline.com/pipermail/liveaboard/ To search the archives http://www.mail-archive.com/liveaboard@liveaboardnow.org The Mailman Users Guide can be found here http://www.gnu.org/software/mailman/mailman-member/index.html
