Wondering if the stern locker is full from the skeg breaking off and if the
water looked like it wasn't going down because it was coming from there as I
pumped it out.  I guess I will find out soon.  2" pump should almost be
enough to pump the whole river out.

-----Original Message-----
From: liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com
[mailto:liveaboard-boun...@liveaboardonline.com] On Behalf Of JohnB
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2012 10:01 PM
To: liveaboard@liveaboardonline.com
Subject: Re: [Liveaboard] Hull breach and about 2 feet of water in my boat.

Good stuff. On the MKII there is really no areas of egress for water in the
stern, no through hull fittings and motor/s are outboard. Only thing is the
skeg which is bolted through the hull  which wouldn't be enough that big
pumps couldn't handle.

The tarp is probably the best idea as it would seem to be a hull problem.
Having said that the hulls are glass and thick from back when glass was
cheap and weight was not a big issue.

JohnB
s/c Drumbeat Iroquois MKII

On 5/1/2012 9:37 PM, Rufus wrote:
> Ouch. Sorry to hear, Vern.
>
>> big hole...
> Bring some gloves. The underside, not to mention any possible jagged
edges, won't help your hands.
>
>> pump...
> To work best (anywhere close to spec) a pump needs the lowest restriction
on the outlet possible. Means use as big a hose as the pump will take and
rout it for the shortest distance and lowest lift. It sounds like the lift
out the companion way over the side would be about 6'-8'; anything to reduce
that will improve pumping. The intake also can be a problem, trying as it
does to eat anything it can reach.
> If the pump you mention (16xx gph) works close to spec, it dumps close to
25 gpm; but that's under optimal conditions w/no head. Did the output look
something like that? That's one 5gal bucket every 12sec so it wouldn't take
but a few secs to see if it's anything close. If pump is not putting out
water to spec, a lot of your figuring and planning is based on false
assumptions and _that_ never helps anything.
>
> Assuming the pump you have is working my best thought: 1) Run all pumps
full, monitor to optimize and make sure everything is doing the job you want
it to. 2) Use the plastic or tarp to search for the leak; it sounds like the
rudder, prop shaft (missing), aft through-hull, engine exhaust are the most
likely suspects. If you know the sizes you might pick up some conical plugs
to suit; West will take them back if unused. If you can get a big tarp under
most of the after section in such a way that you can secure it topsides so
it stays in place, you might be able dry out on a temporary basis using only
the one pump in a deep well; probably won't work if your bottom has lots of
barnacles.
>
> Epoxy putty (grey/black) from plumbing supply houses or the box stores 
> is probably less than anything West has; but it's not designed for 
> under water and it's not particiularly cheap itself. Comes in 8" 
> sticks or tubes; temporary, of course. It's pretty stiff; sets in 
> about 10 minutes after kneading parts together
>
> Sheet metal screws hold well in GRP. The hex head version is easier to
drive than phillips head. If you can find a pneumatic driver you can use
battens to aid the temp repair. Otherwise you need a strong wrist. The box
stores (HD at least) sell plaster lathe which might work for battens, but
check a piece for bend-ability before planning on it.
>
> IF the tarps prove too weak, you might be able to get old coated canvas
from an (house) awning maker; they might have scrap or trash which would
work for you. You want the coated kind to reduce water permeability.
>
> Good luck. Hopefully none of the above will prove really necessary and
you'll just find a hose off a through-hull or something.
>
> Rufus
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