I have no problem with it. Check this out. Open gconf-editor and go to /desktop/gnome/interface, look for a key called toolbar_style. You can have four posible values: both, both-horiz, icons, and text.  Try to change here. Have a PCManFM window opened near gconf-editor to see the changes. If nothing happens, please, tell me again, but test it first with another theme (open LXAppearance and select Clearlooks, for example).

Cheers!

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