Jon,
As a fellow beginner, I have to say that the tied frets are not a 
problem at all.  If they are gut (i.e. gut strings that have been tied 
around the neck) they are slightly elastic and grip the neck quite 
firmly if they have been tied on tightly above the actual location of 
the fret and forced down into  position.  They can slip when the gut 
gets old and loses its elasticity, but so far mine have stayed very 
firmly in place.  There is an advantage for an amateur builder in 
placing gut frets: In cutting and placing metal frets, a slight 
miscalculation or slip while cutting the fret slot means that the 
instrument will be permanently out of tune on that note.  With tied 
frets, you can adjust the position of of the fret once the instrument 
has been strung using an electronic tuner.  And replacing tied frets is 
a much easier job than re-fretting an instrument with metal frets.  In 
regular practice, though, you don't move them around.

I had wondered at first if all the insistence on the historic lute 
shape and the tied frets was just fussiness.  But once you hear a live 
lute performance (and especially once you hold and play a decently-made 
lute), your skepticism will go away.  There is nothing like it.

Good luck!

Tim Motz

On Saturday, October 4, 2003, at 04:05  AM, Jon Murphy wrote:

> Wow, what a lot of information, it will take days to absorb it. I've 
> gone to
> Craig's recommended site (RWC) and their eight course kit is about the 
> same
> price (if I remember my exchange rates) as Musikits, and it is 
> classical.
> But of course I'll have to think about the flexibilty of the movable 
> frets
> versus the possible annoyance of readjusting them (comments here are
> welcome). Do remember I don't expect to become a lutenist by 
> profession, it
> will be one of my several old fashioned instruments - although I admit 
> I'm
> spending more time on my retuned guitar on lute pieces than I am on my
> harps.
>
> So as I read your many informative comments I'll ask another question. 
> Does
> anyone have experience with the quality of RWC instruments, kits or
> completed? I know the quality of Musikits, but the picture shown on 
> the RWC
> site looks good. They mention a closer string spacing on the Hieber 8 
> course
> so as to play the Dowland "runs", but I haven't the vaguest idea what 
> that
> means. I'd be interested if one of you could look at RWC and compare 
> the
> described characteristics of that and the "pseudo lute" from Musikits 
> - and
> also if you could tell me how well the gut tied frets hold position. I 
> want
> to play the music, not spend my life adjusting (as I have to keep 52 
> harp
> strings, 22 psaltery strings, and four dulcimer strings in tune, not to
> mention the guitar).
>
> But that RWC looks quite good, and at just under 300 pounds should be 
> about
> the same price (or a little less) than Jerry's US $350 lute - but my 
> last
> experience with exchange rates was when the pound was US $2.80. (And 
> before
> that US $5.00, which is why in NYC slang a five dollar bill is still 
> called
> a pound.
>
> Thanks again,
>
> Best, Jon
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Friday, October 03, 2003 6:50 AM
> Subject: Lute kits
>
>
>> For those who have recently been asking about lute kits, the 
>> Renaissance
>> Workshop Company has two, an 8 course Hieber and a 7 course Venere. 
>> Here's
>> their main page. Just select "stinged instruments" in their search 
>> engine
>> and scroll till you find the lutes.
>>
>> http://www.rwcweb.com/index.jsp
>>
>> Regards,
>> Craig
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>


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