Hello All,

I have a couple thoughts on this:

Perhaps the pegs worked better after the change in
part simply because you turned them many many times
more than you would in normal tuning and smoothed them
out a bit?

or

When you no longer had extra string wound around the
pegs the string lay directly on the (round) peg rather
than on uneven layers of string wrappings - or at
least the outgoing string lay more toward the thin end
of the peg. In effect you had a thinner peg, which
would take more twisting to achieve the same pull on
the string, making fine adjustment that much easier.

As I understand your description you put about twice
as much string on the peg as needed? When you later
change the string around is the then formerly wound
string as strong and servicable as new? It's a clever
way to have a apare string on your lute (at least half
of the time)!



~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
A brilliant analysis (if I say so myself) - I wonder
if it is true?
String, but true?? :-D

Bob Purrenhage


--- Ed Durbrow <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> wrote:

> Do you have a teacher? What does s/he say about it?
> If you just got 
> the lute, it could have been just an anomaly or it
> may be that your 
> lute is strung improperly. You do not want to have
> the wrong tension 
> on there. If you are brand new to the lute, coming
> from classical 
> guitar, you need to be aware that the tension of an
> individual string 
> is less than that of the guitar. Who set the lute
> stringing up? Did 
> you get it directly from the maker? Does the maker
> specialize in 
> lutes? Did it break at the nut, bridge or somewhere
> else? Where it 
> broke could indicate some rough or sharp spot.
> 
> Nice pegs are a joy. I had a bit of a revelation the
> other day when I 
> changed 'round the position of my Nylguts on my tiny
> A lute. The 
> strings are long enough to almost get two strings
> out of them. I had 
> wound up the unused part on the peg. When I reversed
> the string I 
> didn't need to wind up the part that had been played
> on for months. 
> This made the tuner pegs work much smoother. I don't
> know why. It 
> wasn't rubbing on anything before. Anyway, this is a
> J. Rollins lute 
> and I wrote and asked him how he made such smooth
> tuners. He just 
> said do it right, or something to that effect. I
> don't know what his 
> secret is, but I appreciate it.
> 
> Some peg dope might help the tuners. If this is a
> used instrument, 
> perhaps the pegs need to be re-turned? The makers
> here could advise 
> you better.
> 
> cheers,
> 
> >I obtained my first lute a couple of weeks ago and
> have just broken a
> >string. There has been a lot of technical stuff
> about strings on the
> >discussion list in recent times, but to be honest,
> such technicalities are
> >beyond me.  I should like some practical advice,
> please, because I don't
> >understand why I broke the string. I was trying to
> tune it to F, and had
> >got to E, so it was well below what I was aiming
> for. I should have thought
> >that there was no reason for the break. I had
> successfully tuned the lute a
> >couple of times in the previous week, so I know
> it's possible!
> >
> >As a classical guitarist, I do find the tuning pegs
> awkward. Indeed, I am
> >finding the whole lute awkward at present, but I've
> no doubt that
> >eventually I might get the hang of it and actually
> be able to play something!
> >
> >In the meantime, any practical hints on tuning -
> without too much science -
> >would be most appreciated.
> >
> >Thanks,
> >
> >Regards
> >
> >Caroline
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >To get on or off this list see list information at
>
>http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
> 
> 
> -- 
> Ed Durbrow
> Saitama, Japan
> http://www9.plala.or.jp/edurbrow/
> 
> 
> 


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