Silk is probably better and in the UK there are a couple of kits that are
sold for the purpose. all you need is a crescent of silk of a similar weight
to a silk handkerchief and a good acrylic cement containing an anti-fungal
compound as fungal infections in the nails will really damage them and are
more likely with frequent applications of false nails. Apply a small amount
of cement to the edge of the nail and apply the crescent, cut to fit, with
about 1/16 - 1/4 inch overlay. Apply a coat of acrylic cement to the the
silk and nail once the first application has dried, allow that to dry and
then apply a second coat. Let that dry completely before shaping with emery
paper. If you can, let the nail dry over night but I have done the whole
thing in two hours. Dont forget the solvent for the cement. The new nail
will last for up to three weeks.
Charles

-----Original Message-----
From: Eugene C. Braig IV [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]
Sent: 11 January 2005 15:08
To: bill kilpatrick; lute list
Subject: *** SPAM *** Re: torn fingernails


At 12:38 AM 1/11/2005, bill kilpatrick wrote:
>there's an interesting contribution to the "fingers vs
>fingerpicks vs plectrums" thread over on
>[EMAIL PROTECTED] that details how to
>repair torn fingernails with perm paper (the guy is a
>hair dresser) and glue.
>
>- bill


I don't know that this is useful to most lutenists, maybe the Italianate
archlute crowd, but when I have a guitar gig pending and have damaged
nails, I do something similar.  I will apply a thin layer of some
incarnation of cyanoacrylate (i.e., "super" glues) to the damaged area.  I
almost always use commercially available "nail" glues because they seem a
little more pliable and less rigid.  I will place a sliver of coffee filter
paper over the glue, torn to fit and leaving the jagged edges to be more
absorbent and "blend-able."  Depending on the nature of the damage, I may
fold the paper over the edge of the tear and under the nail as well.  After
the glue becomes tacky, I will layer more cyanoacrylate over this whole
assembly.  After it is completely dry, I blend the edges into the nail and
buff it to a shine with multi-stage cosmetic nail buffers.  The end result
should be almost invisible and function essentially like the nail itself,
both in typical punteado upstrokes and in rasgueado...of course it should,
but it sometimes requires a mid-process abort, especially in positioning
the paper, and a restart.  It will be thicker and certainly more rigid than
nail, but it will do in a bind.

If the nail is lost, I will cut acrylic (either a ping-pong ball or the
finer end of artificial fingernails that is designed to be glued over the
nail) to fit and glue it _under_ the nail with the acrylic protruding to
span the lost area.  The joint will receive the glue-and-coffe-filter-paper
treatment described above.

Best,
Eugene



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