Dana, I've had a devil of a time using go-bars with lute bracing. Lute braces are narrow and it's difficult to position the go bar so it doesn't flip a brace over. If the pressure is even a little bit off-axis, there goes your brace. I would imagine it's different with the wider bracing found on guitars. The reason I use go-bars when re-gluing bridges is because bridges are wider; then all of the advantages you cite come into play.
I would love to hear if anyone on the list has advice for using go bars with lute bracing. Do you use the commercial fiberglass go-bars or shop-made wooden ones? I think the original versions were hazel rods. Tim --- dem...@suffolk.lib.ny.us wrote: From: dem...@suffolk.lib.ny.us To: "Santiago Ramos-Collado" <chagorra...@yahoo.com> Cc: rel...@sbcglobal.net, lute-buil...@cs.dartmouth.edu Subject: [LUTE-BUILDER] Re: hide glue gram strength Date: Thu, 3 Dec 2009 11:07:15 -0500 (EST) > having an appropriate jig to be able to carry this out as > fast as possible (forget about go-bars; I do not think they are a good > idea at all, unless one could tension several at the same time!) try it before you give up, I think you will find it a popular solution with many luthiers. The pressure possible from a gobar is just right for the work, the space available is appropriate, and every gobar is a deep-throat clamp with no reach problems. The only faster setup would involve pneumatic plungers, which means a low ceiling to attach them to and the risk there is an inability to see when things have gone wrong inside (a small rib mispositioned tipping over for example). > When I have it done, I shall share the > photographs. they would be welcome by us, but not sure the list will forward attachments. -- Dana Emery To get on or off this list see list information at http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/~wbc/lute-admin/index.html
