Dear All,
         I suppose I should add an explanation for why I need this gluing
   technique.
   I have always regretted that my Baroque lute was strung for 415Hz
   rather than for 392 (for which I had actually asked my lute maker, but
   he had forgotten this). The main reason for 392 would have been to
   achieve thicker trebles for my 700mm lute, allowing the fingers to "dig
   more deeply" into these strings. Diapason 392 could  allow f1:0.46,
   d2:0.54, and A3:0.64 (instead of f1:0.42, d-2:0.50 and A3:0.58 at
   415Hz).
   Historic arguments in favour of this, for the French Baroque lute,
   might be the relatively small diapason of historic French lutes (around
   68 according to Martyn, and others), which would imply relatively thick
   trebles, unless the diapason pitch was above 415Hz. I rather assume
   this is part of the French aesthetic. What do you think?
   $
   I managed to lower the diapason to 407 (and slightly raise the top
   string tensions); this was the lowest point at which these loaded
   strings would work well (I kept the original tension by simulataneously
   raising the tension of the octaves). I believed the original tension on
   the basses was 3Kg and on the octaves 2K8 (as indicated by my
   lutemaker). I therefore thought that after lowering to 407 and changing
   the octaves to 3K1 for that frequency, I would maintain the lutemakers
   suggested tension, but have 2K9 on the basses and 3K1 on the octaves (I
   roughly confirmed this with Dan Larson's string calculator).
   However, I did notice that the Venice Octaves were clearly now the lead
   voice, which I felt was highly desirable, but which did not quite fit
   in with the small difference of tension. Also Martin Shepherd told me
   that 2K9 was quite high tension on the basses. However, this was not at
   all how they felt, but I just put that down to the flexibility of the
   loaded basses.
   $
   Recently, however, I wondered whether I could achieve 392 with basses
   close to 2K9 by moving C11 to D10 and D10 to E9, and so forth (in other
   words by a simple shift of each string up one). I did fear I might get
   a more irregular tension pattern, and also that the tension might be
   too high.
   $
   At this point, I played around with Arto's string calculator, and
   finally understood how it worked (I am a little computer programme
   challenged, and previously gave up when not quite understanding which
   field corresponded to what parameter) .
   With Arto's calculator now uderstood, I was  able to set the diapason
   explicitly to 407Hz and remove the guess work. I was surprised to find
   my basses at 407Hz were actually at a lowish 2K7 (taking account of
   true thickness of the flexible loaded Venices by dividing their value
   by 1.07, as explained by Mimmo on the Venice string page).
   Dropping them to diapason 392 (according to "Arto-calc" would bring
   them effectively to around the 2K9, I thought I had originally. I
   believed this would be acceptable, although I could still drop the
   diapason slightly to 380Hz or so to compensate if necessary.
   I would of course have to change most of the other strings, but I
   didn't want to throw out my "expensive" and well worn in loaded basses
   (unless they prove already to be a little too old, I have had them 2
   years or more?)
   $
   Anyway I thought I could use these, at least, to check the resulting
   values would work well at 392 with 2K9 tension. I made just one check
   by tuning the C11 string D10 at 392Hz, and it seemed acceptable, so I
   think I can go ahead with the experiment.
   $
   I then remembered that as my loaded strings had been cut very short to
   prevent them rubbing against the decorative panel of the peg-box. I
   might need to "lengthen" some loaded basses and perhaps some Venice
   octaves to reach the peg two above, which is why I have asked for your
   knotting advice. Thank you everyone for your help.
   I will of course need at least one new loaded string for C11 to carry
   out the experiment.
   $
   I am just wondering whether other loaded gut users have tensions around
   my target 2K9, higher or lower? 2K7 did work alright, I must admit.
   Do most of you try to lower your basses by  compensating with higher
   tension octaves (or are they the same, or lower)?
   Do most pure and gimped gut users have basses around 2K5 (Dan Larson),
   lower (Satoh), or higher?
   $
   Practical considerations:
           I am aware that pure gut string users will probably consider
   2K9 as a high tension. Dan Larson's standard is 2K5, but this is for
   pure gut, no doubt to compensate for its natural thickness (and
   inharmonicity, or high impedance, at high tension), and also to account
   for the relative stiffness of Dan's gimped strings.
   With loaded Venice strings the flexibility, especially for the lower
   basses, is even greater than that of a Venice (as the core is
   relatively thin, the weight determined more by the loading).
   Therefore the impedance at the bridge, even with highish tensions,
   remains low.
   $
   Theoretical consoderations:
   Of course, low tension as a hypothesis of historical stringing is
   mainly advanced to account for the tiny historic bridge holes
   contrasting with the naturally thick pure gut string (and the poor
   harmonicity of such strings when at higher tension); but also to relate
   to the relatively thin bass strings represented in the iconography (see
   for example the Charles Mouton lute).
   Further arguments for low tension are that most iconography and lute
   marks (see Mimmo Lute news NADEG 94) indicate an RH position near the
   bridge, which could indicate an attempt to compensate low tension by
   finding a string point with greater tension (see T. Satoh).
   $
   If one adopts the loaded string hypothesis, however, higher tensions
   can be achieved, while maintaining thin string diameter compatible with
   small bridge holes and the iconography; while the RH position could
   indicate an attempt to achieve a point of higher resistance with low
   impedance strings.
   (An alternative high tension theory is put forward by Charles Besnainou
   involving a special low impedance spring bass string, more of this
   later. Perhaps, George Stoppani's lang lay ropes might  have a similar
   but less low impedance potential).
   Regards
   Anthony
     __________________________________________________________________

   De : Guy Smith <guy_m_sm...@comcast.net>
   A : Anthony Hind <agno3ph...@yahoo.com>
   EnvoyA(c) le : Lun 22 novembre 2010, 18h 33min 07s
   Objet : RE: [LUTE] Re: tying two strings of different thickness
   together?

   I agree. The grapevine knot works best when the sizes are roughly
   equal. Fortunately, I've never had to extend a loaded string.

   _______________________________________________________________________

   From: Anthony Hind [mailto:agno3ph...@yahoo.com]
   Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 8:58 AM
   To: Guy Smith
   Subject: Re : [LUTE] Re: tying two strings of different thickness
   together?


   Thanks Guy
          One of the two ropes could be a loaded one, and so probably not
   supple enough to participate in a double knot. The sheet bend knot
   might be all I can manage, but for other strings I will try your
   suggestion.
   Regards
   Anthony
   PS I see there animated knot examples, that make things fairly
   foolproof.

   _______________________________________________________________________

   De : Guy Smith <guy_m_sm...@comcast.net>
   A : lute@cs.dartmouth.edu; Anthony Hind <agno3ph...@yahoo.com>
   EnvoyA(c) le : Lun 22 novembre 2010, 17h 18min 57s
   Objet : RE: [LUTE] Re: tying two strings of different thickness
   together?
   I use a grapevine knot. I learned that in my rock-climbing days as a
   bombproof way to tie into a rope. Probably overkill, but if it can hold
   a
   twenty foot leader fall, it should be able to handle a lute string:-)
   FWIW, the traditional knot for joining two lengths of fishing line is a
   blood knot, which would be another possibility. I tend to avoid square
   knots. They can easily be turned into a cats paw knot, which isn't
   secure at
   all.
   Here's a good reference for all sorts of knots:
   [1]http://www.layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm
   Guy
   -----Original Message-----
   From: [2]lute-...@cs.dartmouth.edu
   [mailto:[3]lute-...@cs.dartmouth.edu] On Behalf
   Of Martyn Hodgson
   Sent: Monday, November 22, 2010 8:05 AM
   To: [4]l...@cs.dartmouth.edu; Anthony Hind
   Subject: [LUTE] Re: tying two strings of different thickness together?
       I use a reef knot - but secured with a drop of super glue....
     --- On Mon, 22/11/10, Anthony Hind <[5]agno3ph...@yahoo.com> wrote:
       From: Anthony Hind <[6]agno3ph...@yahoo.com>
       Subject: [LUTE] tying two strings of different thickness together?
       To: [7]l...@cs.dartmouth.edu
       Date: Monday, 22 November, 2010, 15:28
         Dear All
               I may need to lengthen a string which does not quite reach
     the
         peg, but goes well beyond the nut. I would like to attach it to a
         slightly thinner short piece of gut to reach the peg in question.
   I
         remember that Stephen Gottlieb had done that for several strings
   on
     my
         lute; but I can no longer remember the type of knot he used. Can
     anyone
         advise me, or tell me of a page where this knot is described.
         Regards
         Anthony
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References

   1. http://www.layhands.com/Knots/Knots_KnotsIndex.htm
   2. mailto:lute-...@cs.dartmouth.edu
   3. mailto:lute-...@cs.dartmouth.edu
   4. mailto:lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
   5. mailto:agno3ph...@yahoo.com
   6. mailto:agno3ph...@yahoo.com
   7. mailto:lute@cs.dartmouth.edu
   8. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html
   9. http://www.cs.dartmouth.edu/%7Ewbc/lute-admin/index.html

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