Thanx for the info on this.
I have a Model 100 that sometime recently developed a single missing horizontal row of pixels.
I was thinking about opening it and possibly heating the strip a bit to try to fix it, which is a common known fix for similar issues with the original Gameboy and I have done that. (Admittedly, that was years ago, and I'd have to refresh my memory on what I actually did, but it worked. There are videos on youtube for that.)
But when I went googling, the information I could find on trying anything to fix it didn't look promising.
Still not sure I will try it (just the one missing row), but knowing it is that same type of elastomeric type of connector give me some hope...
Although, the thought of maybe going in on a group order of new strips from Alibaba or wherever is something to consider too if someone could set that up.
Sent: Tuesday, March 03, 2020 at 7:53 PM
From: "Kevin Becker" <ke...@kevinbecker.org>
To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com
Subject: Re: [M100] LCD Lines
From: "Kevin Becker" <ke...@kevinbecker.org>
To: m100@lists.bitchin100.com
Subject: Re: [M100] LCD Lines
That is an interesting approach. I've taken several PC-3 pocket computers apart and reassembled them which is my only experience with elastomeric strips. I've been successful in that regard on the smaller PC-3 scale. I have to admit, I'm not eager to disassemble the LCD on this M100 so I may give that a try first.
On a side note, I ordered replacement electrolytic caps, a new NiMh battery, and an 8kb RAM module to bring it up to 32kb so I hope I actually can get the screen working to make it all worthwhile.
On Tue, 2020-03-03 at 19:40 -0800, B4 Me100 wrote:
I have not had any success removing the LCD bezel so would not recommend that approach. It was hard for me to get the elastomer strip to re-conform on the PCB making things worse in the end. I tried it on two different LCDs so perhaps I need more practice :)One trick that works for me is to put some de-oxit (or similar) on the elastomer and the use a thin piece of plastic or card to very gently massage the elastomer via the gap between the bezel and PCB. The screen can be powered to make it easier to see which lines are being impacted. Looking at the image I would say it looks like oxidation issues. Driver issues usually result in faint lines that vary in intensity with the contrast. At least in my experience.From: M100 <m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com> on behalf of Kevin Becker <ke...@kevinbecker.org>
Reply-To: <m...@bitchin100.com>
Date: Tuesday, March 3, 2020 at 6:58 AM
To: "m...@bitchin100.com" <m...@bitchin100.com>
Subject: [M100] LCD LinesI've had a Model 102 for years that I enjoy tinkering with and I've often thought I should pick up a Model 100 as well but never had a real need. Now with new forthcoming REXCPM on the horizon I figured I might start watching eBay looking for a deal. I ended up picking up a nice clean (on the outside anyway) m100 that has some screen issues. There isna large horizontal band of missing pixels all the way across the screen as well as some vertical lines missing for about half the screen.I've seen the repair video linked below fixing similar issues. Squeezing the bezel fixes part of the widest section of missing vertical lines near the middle of the screen but leaves every other line missing still. No amount of pressure anywhere around the bezel seemed to affect the missing horizontal lines, nor the alternating section of missing lines. My question is, is there anything else I should check before removing the LCD bezel and examining the elastomer strips? The NiCad has just begun leaking but has not reached the board. All but one of the smaller black electrolytic caps have leaked quite a bit though. Is there any way that damaged traces on the main PCB would produce the issues on the LCD?
