That isn't as safe as a puller with flat wires that cross the corners and
lifts on 4 points.

2 hooks means 2 points which means it's always at risk of pulling off
center, even sliding all the way to one side and doing exactly the damage
you're trying to avoid.

It's better than prying from the side, and I'm sure you can do it 100 times
with no problem, but keycap pullers are designed the way they are for a
reason.

If you're going make one from a paper clip, there are youtube videos that
show how to make a proper one from paper clips, or you can even use a
binder clip without even having to modify it.

-- 
bkw

On Wed, Feb 16, 2022, 5:55 PM R Oaks <ro...@hotmail.com> wrote:

> I have a bunch (couple dozen) of original NEC 8201A that I still use.
> I took a sturdy paper clip, straightened it.
> Use plyers to make VERY short 90 degree hook/tab on each end.
> Bend in center with 'hooks' 'facing' each other.
> Slip between the keys and then pull perpendicular to the plane of the
> keyboard.
> This pulls STRAIGHT up instead of 'prying' on the sides
> ...easy and worked for me.
> Regards
> ================
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* M100 <m100-boun...@lists.bitchin100.com> on behalf of
> m100-requ...@lists.bitchin100.com <m100-requ...@lists.bitchin100.com>
> *Sent:* Wednesday, February 16, 2022 17:02
> *To:* m100@lists.bitchin100.com <m100@lists.bitchin100.com>
> *Subject:* M100 Digest, Vol 134, Issue 11
>
> Send M100 mailing list submissions to
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> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of M100 digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>    1. Model 102 keys (Brad Grier)
>    2. Re: Model 102 keys (Brian K. White)
>    3. Re: Model 102 keys (Brad Grier)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2022 22:01:21 -0700
> From: Brad Grier <b...@bradgrier.com>
> To: m...@bitchin100.com
> Subject: [M100] Model 102 keys
> Message-ID:
>         <
> camxs_2tbz7lbwemdjrdhxdqsqcrut0+rqhp_jt76o198c0_...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Hi all, I've got a couple of dead keys on a Model 102. I understand they're
> the rubber dome type of keys. I'm thinking I can pop the keys, check and
> clean the contacts.
>
> But.
>
> They seem to be quite firmly affixed (haven't pulled too hard yet) so was
> wondering if there's something 'different' going on there regarding the way
> the keys are mounted and the best way to remove them.
>
> It doesn't look like an ALPS board that the others use...
>
>
> --Brad
>
>
> --
> --
> Brad Grier
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
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> http://lists.bitchin100.com/private.cgi/m100-bitchin100.com/attachments/20220215/fb7a67d2/attachment-0001.html
> >
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 04:49:03 -0500
> From: "Brian K. White" <b.kenyo...@gmail.com>
> To: m...@bitchin100.com
> Subject: Re: [M100] Model 102 keys
> Message-ID: <7298b690-bffa-f1bb-ac09-188247eff...@gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8; format=flowed
>
> Get a sharp bent-tip a dental pick and watch this.
>
> https://youtu.be/n_oyDYRDYzs
>
> It's not too obvious what the point was from the video I guess but the T
> key was almost dead, and so I swapped the rubber dome with the one from
> the right-shift key because I can live with the right-shift being dead
> if I have to.
>
> In the end, it not only fixed the T key, the right-shift still works
> fine. Both keys now work fine. Go figure.
>
> --
> bkw
>
>
> On 2/16/22 00:01, Brad Grier wrote:
> > Hi all, I've got a couple of dead keys on a Model 102. I understand
> > they're the rubber dome type of keys. I'm thinking I can pop the keys,
> > check and clean the contacts.
> >
> > But.
> >
> > They seem to be quite firmly affixed (haven't pulled too hard yet) so
> > was wondering if there's something 'different' going on there regarding
> > the way the keys are mounted and the best way to remove them.
> >
> > It doesn't look like an ALPS board that the others use...
> >
> >
> > --Brad
> >
> >
> > --
> > --
> > Brad Grier
> >
> >
>
>
> --
> bkw
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 16 Feb 2022 06:34:44 -0700
> From: Brad Grier <b...@bradgrier.com>
> To: m...@bitchin100.com
> Subject: Re: [M100] Model 102 keys
> Message-ID:
>         <
> camxs_2uxzacjc956sv7fkx56warlge0xmourgax03-1hbwx...@mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Interesting. Glitch in the Matrix -- Brian, I didn't get your reply via
> email but did see it on the Discord mailing list roll-up (nice to have
> that!!).
>
> Thanks for posting that link to the video. It looks like you had no problem
> removing the key caps from the mechanism. I tried yesterday but they seemed
> more resistant than other keys have in my experience. I'll try again and
> maybe just 'worry at it' a bit more.
>
> Good detail on that video of lifting the front and back lock-tabs. Very
> helpful! Thanks, and I'll report back on how it goes.
>
> --Brad
>
>
>
>
> On Tue, Feb 15, 2022 at 10:01 PM Brad Grier <b...@bradgrier.com> wrote:
>
> > Hi all, I've got a couple of dead keys on a Model 102. I understand
> > they're the rubber dome type of keys. I'm thinking I can pop the keys,
> > check and clean the contacts.
> >
> > But.
> >
> > They seem to be quite firmly affixed (haven't pulled too hard yet) so was
> > wondering if there's something 'different' going on there regarding the
> way
> > the keys are mounted and the best way to remove them.
> >
> > It doesn't look like an ALPS board that the others use...
> >
> >
> > --Brad
> >
> >
> > --
> > --
> > Brad Grier
> >
> >
> >
>
> --
> --
> Brad Grier
> -------------- next part --------------
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>
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>
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> End of M100 Digest, Vol 134, Issue 11
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