Brian - thanks for the video. My 102 has a different type of key, but I'd think the swapping of the rubber/stud would be the same.
Any idea why swapping yours got both keys to work, and didn't just fix one key but then "break" the other? I'm surprised that one key didn't work with its original rubber/stud, but swapping two of those didn't cause the other key to fail. Tom M. On Sun, Jul 6, 2025 at 11:58 PM Brian White <[email protected]> wrote: > Forgot to say in that video the point was I fixed a partly dead T key by > swapping the dead key with another key that sees much less use, and which > you can tolerate being weak because you need it less. In the end not only > the T key got better, but the doner key didn't get worse. Both keys work > every time now. > > And it did not require taking the machine apart. You can pull the keycap > off with a key puller and then use a 90 degree pick to get underneath the > clips and release the top of the switch body, all from the outside without > taking anything apart. > > bkw > > On Sun, Jul 6, 2025, 11:43 PM Brian White <[email protected]> wrote: > >> There are silver plated metal contacts with indeed a little stud, and a >> carbon pad on a silicone dome. >> >> https://youtu.be/n_oyDYRDYzs >> >> bkw >> >> On Sun, Jul 6, 2025, 6:27 PM Andrew Ayers <[email protected]> wrote: >> >>> I've never taken a 102's keyboard apart, nor have I seen the "insides" >>> like you describe them, but that little thing in the rubber cap you >>> mention as a "metal stud"...likely isn't metal. >>> >>> Based on keypads and other similar kinds of "button devices" I've taken >>> apart (remote controls, calculators, etc) - it's actually some kind of >>> plastic or rubber compound impregnated with carbon. It does actually >>> complete the circuit, as you stated. >>> >>> But I've also found when I've tried to bridge such a circuit with just a >>> piece of metal...getting it to work can be "finicky" - assuming in your >>> case it works at all, and the break isn't somewhere else. >>> >>> Cleaning of the contacts as suggested is a good step, though I don't >>> know if you need to necessarily use an eraser; they tend to be abrasive, >>> which in the case of cleaning contacts you'd think would be okay, but >>> realize that the metal layer of those contacts is very thin. One such >>> "cleaning" won't harm it, but do it enough times...hopefully that won't >>> be needed or necessary, of course. >>> >>> You might try just using the alcohol (and a swab), first (I have a >>> "thing" when cleaning things, especially if solvents and plastics are to >>> be involved: start with the least harmful first, then move up the chain >>> - that's usually either soap and water, or rubbing alcohol; end of the >>> chain, of course, is a right angle grinder and/or "blue wrench" and/or >>> BFH). >>> >>> Regardless, try also some rubbing alcohol on that little stud, as it can >>> sometimes get dirt and/or other deposits that can prevent the circuit >>> from being made. >>> >>> Good luck! >>> >>> Andrew L. Ayers >>> Glendale, Arizona >>> phoenixgarage.org >>> github.com/andrew-ayers >>> >>
