it builds OK universal on Monterey Intel:

% port -v installed jemalloc
The following ports are currently installed:
  jemalloc @5.3.0_2+universal (active) requested_variants='+universal' 
platform='darwin 21' archs='arm64 x86_64' date='2022-08-22T17:31:05-0700’


There are many combinations and permutations that can make strange things 
happen.

If someone else reproduces your universal build failure on an arm Mac, perhaps 
we can sort it out. Usually we do.

I don’t have an arm Mac, though, so will defer to someone who does.

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