Well, the advice about finding another ttf font led me to install
apple fonts through fink ( $fink install applesystemfonts) , then set
my font.list to be the following:

MAPSCRIPT[1]$ cat fonts.list
arial    /Library/Fonts/ArialHB.ttf
arial2    /Library/Fonts/Arial
arial3   /sw/lib/X11/fonts/applettf/Arial.ttf
MAPSCRIPT[1]$

and use "arial3".

I now have labels on my map!

Thanks to all,
-W

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