The Guardian August 16, 2000

The Streets of Basra: In the "no-fly" zone


by Lauren Cannon*

Outside my window, as midnight nears, people are just "tucking in" for the 
night, or - as in my case - carrying mats to the rooftop where one can 
enjoy slightly less uncomfortable night air.

Trapped by intense heat, thick smog shrouded the city centre today. Lisa 
[Gizzi] and I felt as though we were chewing the air when we walked through 
an unkempt section of the main market.

The grim determination we saw on so many faces masked, we knew, an intense 
weariness.

There were two small children in the market who shyly called "hello" from 
the street, then skipped away when I replied.

It's remarkable that Basrans maintain hope and preserve their intellectual 
heritage and abilities as they struggle against the chaos wrought by 
increasing deprivation. Miraculously, in spite of the troubles created by 
the sanctions and bombardment, they raise radiant, gleeful children.

Those gleaming eyes and wide smiles greet us as children sitting at the 
roadside say "hello" and then scoop water from a drainage ditch to quench 
their thirst. We try to dissemble our shock as we meet the gentle glances 
of mothers who have no choice but to clean their dishes in the same 
drainage ditch.

Later in the day, two members of my host family pick up the copy of 
Tolstoy's Anna Karenina which I'm reading for the first time, and 
tell me how much they enjoyed reading it years ago.

Just imagine it - by candlelight, because electricity was cut much earlier 
in the day, we discuss Tolstoy's vision of land reform and then Gandhi's 
principles of nonviolence.

This evening I walked with Nadra, my very dear and impeccably tidy host, to 
empty the waste baskets at the garbage dump: the intersection of our 
street. The trash piles up, mixed with sewage, and there simply are no 
trucks to pick it all up.

Forbidden by sanctions: the trucks might have a military purpose. They 
might be "dual use".

Summer in Basra - nightmare fears leaping into the everyday lives of 
innocents who've already endured close to two decades of military and 
economic warfare. Summer in Basra - a world of imprisoned beauty where we 
feel no threat.

Who does Iraq threaten? Let's be honest. Iraq threatens the US ability to 
control Iraq's precious and irreplaceable resources.

* * *

*Lauren Cannon, Lisa Gizzi and four other members of the US organisation 
Voices In The Wilderness are beginning a two-month "cultural immersion" in 
Basra, Iraq, living with families and sharing their lives - and deaths - 
under the sanctions and bombings. See last week's Guardian for 
another report from Lauren Cannon.




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