Trail of E. Coli Shows Flaws in Inspection of Ground Beef

By MICHAEL MOSS
The New York Times
October 4, 2009

Stephanie Smith, a children's dance instructor, thought she had a 
stomach virus. The aches and cramping were tolerable that first day, 
and she finished her classes.

Then her diarrhea turned bloody. Her kidneys shut down. Seizures 
knocked her unconscious. The convulsions grew so relentless that 
doctors had to put her in a coma for nine weeks. When she emerged, 
she could no longer walk. The affliction had ravaged her nervous 
system and left her paralyzed.

Ms. Smith, 22, was found to have a severe form of food-borne illness 
caused by E. coli, which Minnesota officials traced to the hamburger 
that her mother had grilled for their Sunday dinner in early fall 
2007.

"I ask myself every day, 'Why me?' and 'Why from a hamburger?' "Ms. 
Smith said. In the simplest terms, she ran out of luck in a 
food-safety game of chance whose rules and risks are not widely known.

Meat companies and grocers have been barred from selling ground beef 
tainted by the virulent strain of E. coli known as O157:H7 since 
1994, after an outbreak at Jack in the Box restaurants left four 
children dead. Yet tens of thousands of people are still sickened 
annually by this pathogen, federal health officials estimate, with 
hamburger being the biggest culprit. Ground beef has been blamed for 
16 outbreaks in the last three years alone, including the one that 
left Ms. Smith paralyzed from the waist down. This summer, 
contamination led to the recall of beef from nearly 3,000 grocers in 
41 states.

Ms. Smith's reaction to the virulent strain of E. coli was extreme, 
but tracing the story of her burger, through interviews and 
government and corporate records obtained by The New York Times, 
shows why eating ground beef is still a gamble. Neither the system 
meant to make the meat safe, nor the meat itself, is what consumers 
have been led to believe.

Ground beef is usually not simply a chunk of meat run through a 
grinder. Instead, records and interviews show, a single portion of 
hamburger meat is often an amalgam of various grades of meat from 
different parts of cows and even from different slaughterhouses. 
These cuts of meat are particularly vulnerable to E. coli 
contamination, food experts and officials say. Despite this, there is 
no federal requirement for grinders to test their ingredients for the 
pathogen.

The frozen hamburgers that the Smiths ate, which were made by the 
food giant Cargill, were labeled "American Chef's Selection Angus 
Beef Patties." Yet confidential grinding logs and other Cargill 
records show that the hamburgers were made from a mix of 
slaughterhouse trimmings and a mash-like product derived from scraps 
that were ground together at a plant in Wisconsin. The ingredients 
came from slaughterhouses in Nebraska, Texas and Uruguay, and from a 
South Dakota company that processes fatty trimmings and treats them 
with ammonia to kill bacteria.

Using a combination of sources - a practice followed by most large 
producers of fresh and packaged hamburger - allowed Cargill to spend 
about 25 percent less than it would have for cuts of whole meat.

Those low-grade ingredients are cut from areas of the cow that are 
more likely to have had contact with feces, which carries E. coli, 
industry research shows. Yet Cargill, like most meat companies, 
relies on its suppliers to check for the bacteria and does its own 
testing only after the ingredients are ground together. The United 
States Department of Agriculture, which allows grinders to devise 
their own safety plans, has encouraged them to test ingredients first 
as a way of increasing the chance of finding contamination.

Unwritten agreements between some companies appear to stand in the 
way of ingredient testing. Many big slaughterhouses will sell only to 
grinders who agree not to test their shipments for E. coli, according 
to officials at two large grinding companies. Slaughterhouses fear 
that one grinder's discovery of E. coli will set off a recall of 
ingredients they sold to others.

...

http://www.nytimes.com/2009/10/04/health/04meat.html?partner=rss&emc=rss

http://feeds.nytimes.com/click.phdo?i=ad806f2e98ef5dd7c925a3a9f89c4ee5

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