Actually the red handled ones you're thinking of also have the brass
crimping device on them. You also do not need to solder them. I found
the ones I used at Dick Smiths but I'm sure you could get them cheeper
elsewhere. Dick Smiths had both the wide and thin type brass crimp
connectors found in the 510 loom, although I still haven't found crimp
connectors suitable for use in the round plug on the back of the
instrument cluster. I modified a 68 loom to fit a 71 model dash and
added a few extras and found it pretty easy to just wind back the tape,
trace the wires and replace and join on where necessary before retapping
the loom rather than a complete new loom. May cause confussion for
someone comming along later but if you want extra things it's the price
you've got to pay. If you do create a new loom, I would also create a
new wiring diagram which makes things so much easier for yourself later.
You should find that there isn't that many relays required. Mine has the
original horn and headlight relays as well as a seperate headlight relay
driven by the original reley and three standard automotive relays that
are associated with my EFI (fuel pump, computer power and one other)
Total = 6 relays.
Luke Clough
Richard Clough wrote:
> I would recommend you dont use alloy crimp type connectors. They are
> expensive and wont fit into the plastic holders that connect the loom
> sections and plug on to the components. You can purchase the original
> style brass connectors in bulk quantities at reasonable cost from an
> electronics shop or Autoelectrical suppliers. These have to be
> crimped and soldered on, but when fitted they are much more reliable
> and original looking than the alloy crimped type. They also slip into
> the original plastic holders and gang plugs, so you end up with a loom
> that looks original and plugs on to all the accessories and electrical
> equipment. To remove the old spade connectors from their plastic
> plugs, dont cut the wires. Slide a small jeweler's screw driver into
> the plastic plug from the outside, to release the spade retaining
> flange, then pull the wire out with pliers. Label each plug before
> disassembling and the bunch of wires that fit into it, so you can make
> it easier to build and assemble your new loom. If you disassemble the
> loom in this way, then unwrap the wires you want to replace, you may
> find you dont need a new loom, as you can repair problems by replacing
> the offending wires and then rewrapping and assembling the existing
> loom. Buy the proper crimping tool for the brass fittings. It makes
> the crimping job easy and the finished job looks original. The tool
> has long blue handles, not red like the alloy crimping tool.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Greer
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Sent: Thursday, 28 December 2000 19:04 PM
> Subject: electrics
> Listers, I am planing to rewire my car in the near future,
> but find relays and the link are very expensive. Does anyone
> have a good source of these parts as well as flasher units
> and wire, and crimp connectors, preferably on the Gold Coast
> but Brisbane is OK. Also are there any brands I should stick
> with or stay away from and any helpful hints on doing
> it. Steve
>
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