No I had it made from Stainless steel. It is a slotted arrangement that
bolts to the tensioner body. The piece that runs on the chain is dowled to
run in the slot and limits the movement of the piston.

Cheers
Trev

-----Original Message-----
From: Cleary Signs [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
Sent: Monday, 12 November 2001 13:45
To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
Subject: Re: refitting head


Trev,
was it made out of nylon (like the kitchen cutting board)?

Heath
----- Original Message -----
From: Pooley, Trevor <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, November 12, 2001 10:50 AM
Subject: RE: refitting head


> List,
>
> I had a Nissan motorsports style tensioner keeper made to resolve this
> problem. Save heaps of time stuffing around with bits of wood etc.
>
> But, to add to Eddie's comments. I have had some luck in the past by
> removing the oil pump and using various screwdrivers to get the tensioner
> back in. Good luck Craig. I think you will need to take the front cover
off
> to set up the chain and cog positions properly.
>
> Cheers
> Trev
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]
> Sent: Sunday, 11 November 2001 3:01
> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> Subject: Re: refitting head
>
>
> I,ve managed to do this twice before without dissembling
everything...first
> time took hours but the second about 5 minutes :-) I just used a long flat
> tipped screwdriver and a torch.
>
> The tesioner has to be EXACTLY inline and EXACTLY square with the hole to
go
> back in as it is a perfect fit in the bore...that's the thing that makes
it
> so difficult to refit without timing cover removal.
>
> There's a bit about it all and a drawing of the tool you need here...
> http://www.datsunworld.com/techtips.htm
> <http://www.datsunworld.com/techtips.htm>
>
> Snap-on also do a tool for L series timing chains but as usual it's
> expensive. Looks nice though :-)
>
> Eddie Rattley
> England
> [EMAIL PROTECTED] <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> www.ratdat.com <http://www.ratdat.com>
>
> From: Steven  <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]> Copcutt
>
>
> Craig   you can get the tensioner back in ( but not easy ) with a lot of
> patience . U need a small tire iron ( lever ) with a curl at one end and
use
> this end with a torch ( so you can see what you are doing ) and lever the
> left side of the cam chain back where they seem closest . ( viewed from
top)
> { this is with the head off }  before you attempt this you need to have a
> piece of wood ( size and measurements is in the archives I think ) to put
> down between the chains when you get the tensioner in , good luck
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Craig Guppy <mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
>
>
> help!
> I just had my L18 head reconditioned, ported and polished and had a medium
> street performance crow cam fitted. the only two things I was told to do
by
> the guy at the autopro shop before I took the head off was to set number 1
> piston at TDC compression stroke, and make sure I didn't drop the timing
> chain. I did this. so now I'm at the stage of putting the head back on.
>
> but now somebody else has told me that if the timing chain wasn't tight
> (which it isn't, it's hanging by a coat-hanger from the bonnet catch with
> about 1 inch of slack) I'd have to take the timing cover off to make sure
it
> hadn't fallen off the bottom cog? (can you tell I've never done this
> before?!) anyway, I'm about to replace the cam sprocket and loop the
timing
> chain up over it but there's 3 small holes at 90 degrees to each other (on
> the cam sprocket) that can each line up with the one circular extrusion on
> the end of the cam.
>
> do I really have to take the timing cover off?
> so which hole fits onto this extrusion? the middle one??
> what angle is the camshaft meant to be at? (the circular extrusion on the
> end of the cam is now at the 12 o'clock position)
>
>
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