Thanks Terry, I'll leave my cooling system as it is. But yeah I think the L20b does have the extra hose that bypasses the thermostat. I'm not sure where it goes, I don't have mine hooked up. I think it goes to the block where the radiator outlet/heater junction is on the sparkplug side. Mick do you have a three bolt thermostat? Perhaps that line we were talking of could be blocked temporarily then see how it all goes?
zac > Zac, > You're right, it's definitely much safer to undo the cap cold and let it > warm up that way. > > Haven't some L20B's got a bypass hose coming out from underneath the > thermostat housing. This could be the problem if Mick has one and it's > connected to the water pump. I seem to recall seeing this sort of bypass on > my mum's Bluey, I know it was quite different to the L16/L18 bypass. > > I would say that anything under 170F is too cool. The stock 1600 (70+) gauge > has a fairly narrow band, the first line is ~165F, the first vertical line > which is the start of the normal range is 170F, the mid line left of the E > is 180F, just left of the P is 190F and the start of the red is ~205F which > is a guestimate as I did the test with a 192F thermostat so it never got up > to the red. It roughly indicates around ~10F for every 1/4" so to answer > your question IMHO the T is ~175F so it's not too cold. > > regards > Terry > > -----Original Message----- > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Zac Campbell > Sent: Thursday, 31 January 2002 11:54 PM > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > Subject: Re: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > I will agree with Terry about his locations of the Celsius markings on the > stock gauge. > Terry when you suggested he take the cap off while the engine is running, > maybe he should do it when the engine is stone cold, then start the engine - > wait until it gets up to temperature and when the thermostat opens you will > see the coolant start flowing into the radiator. If it is flowing from the > start then the thermostat could be stuck open a tad (or of course he could > have a hose of sometype bypassing the thermostat). > > But Terry, going back to your earlier comment about an engine running too > cool, is it possible to put a point on what too cool is? With the thermo > fans and switch I have my engine very rarely gets above 85C and if cruising > on no load it gets down to the start of the T sometimes.. too cold? > > cheers, > zac > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Terry Rudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 10:54 PM > Subject: RE: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > > Mick, > > > > Working out how your engine is running cool whilst on the move gets a bit > > tricky now. Logically to me you have to have either water circulating > > through the radiator with the thermostat shut somehow - the heat has to be > > exchanged into the atmosphere somehow especially as it warms up when > you're > > stopped i.e. no airflow. > > > > Have you got a heater fitted? > > How are the bypass hoses connected or are they blocked off which is the > > normal thing with weber manifolds? > > > > It doesn't make a lot of sense to me and I'm not too sure what we do from > > this point, as you know my rad is very similar to yours and i've never > > experienced anything like this except when a thermostat has jammed open. > I'd > > carefully crack the cap when the engine is running and have a look see > > what's going on inside the radiator, it's very evident if water is > > circulating when the thermostat should be shut. For info 88 degrees on a > > stock gauge is towards the end of the M start of the P region, stock 82 > > degrees is just to the left of the E. What about pressure? > none/some/normal? > > > > This post is a bit like yours too, more questions than answers - the way > it > > goes when trouble shooting I spose. > > > > regards > > Terry > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mick ralph > > Sent: Wednesday, 30 January 2002 11:21 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > > > > Hi Terry > > Good to hear you had a decent break over xmas.. And glad to see you back > and > > active here..hehe I have some more information about this thread.. I > checked > > the thermostat today and sure enough it isn't fully closing. I had another > > one here the same so i tested it and it was fine so I chucked it in. I > also > > set the Webers up a bit better,,, Then go for a run on the motorway and > sure > > enough the temp DIDN"T go up..just stayed on the stop ie 0 ... Come off > the > > motorway and sit at traffic lights and straight away the temp starts to go > > up and sits steady at "E",, As soon as i go back on the motorway the temp > > drops down to zero again. So I get off the motorway and by the time I'm in > > my driveway the gauge is up to "E" again.. > > So > > 1. The thermostat is tested and works @ 88 degrees. > > 2. The gauge seems to be ok > > 3 The engine feels a bit different ie down on power and unhappy > > 4. The engine is hot to the touch after such thrashing but the radiator is > > just warm > > I can see how a thermostat would cop a hiding in these circs and the one i > > tossed is less than 12mths old. > > Should i just try a test with half the radiator blocked off? Not my > > preferred option but easy to test.. Or remove the fan blades (tempting but > > harder) > > If the temp became more 'normal' you would have to say that its 'over > > radiatored' wouldn't u? > > The big question is what effect is this gonna have in a sprint situation > > where often getting enough heat into engines, brakes and tyres is the > major > > problem? > > Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance. > > cheers > > Mick > > > > www.datsun1600.freeservers.com > > > > > > > > >
