Daylight saving problem Zac, I get responses from SA & Qld before NSW/Vic/ACT. I found if I knock of the daylight saving box in windows on my PC then I send things 1 hour before I got the email I'm replying too even if I have the correct local time set - can't win.
regards Terry -----Original Message----- From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of [EMAIL PROTECTED] Sent: Friday, 1 February 2002 10:56 AM To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] Subject: Re: Radiators/UNDERheating// 3 Sorry mick disregard my last email, I should have read this one first!! > Terry and Zac > Thanks for ur responses. It really is an interesting problem.. And quite > unusual i think... normally we are always looking at OVER heating not UNDER > heating! > The new thermostat was tested thoroughly and opens and closes as per spec. > The heater is installed but not connected. > The bypass/heater hoses are just joined together ie a hose runs from the > heater outlet near the water pump back to the heater fitting on the back of > the engine.. Any problems with this set up? > There is no bypass under the thermostat. > I have an expansion tank set up on the radiator if this might make a > difference. > I didn't get the chance to test whether blocking off part of the radiator > helps the problem but I am about to do so today. I will block about a third > of the radiator and see what happens. > Cheers > Mick > > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Terry Rudd" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > Sent: Friday, February 01, 2002 1:32 AM > Subject: RE: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > > Zac, > > You're right, it's definitely much safer to undo the cap cold and let it > > warm up that way. > > > > Haven't some L20B's got a bypass hose coming out from underneath the > > thermostat housing. This could be the problem if Mick has one and it's > > connected to the water pump. I seem to recall seeing this sort of bypass > on > > my mum's Bluey, I know it was quite different to the L16/L18 bypass. > > > > I would say that anything under 170F is too cool. The stock 1600 (70+) > gauge > > has a fairly narrow band, the first line is ~165F, the first vertical line > > which is the start of the normal range is 170F, the mid line left of the E > > is 180F, just left of the P is 190F and the start of the red is ~205F > which > > is a guestimate as I did the test with a 192F thermostat so it never got > up > > to the red. It roughly indicates around ~10F for every 1/4" so to answer > > your question IMHO the T is ~175F so it's not too cold. > > > > regards > > Terry > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of Zac Campbell > > Sent: Thursday, 31 January 2002 11:54 PM > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > Subject: Re: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > > > > I will agree with Terry about his locations of the Celsius markings on the > > stock gauge. > > Terry when you suggested he take the cap off while the engine is running, > > maybe he should do it when the engine is stone cold, then start the > engine - > > wait until it gets up to temperature and when the thermostat opens you > will > > see the coolant start flowing into the radiator. If it is flowing from the > > start then the thermostat could be stuck open a tad (or of course he could > > have a hose of sometype bypassing the thermostat). > > > > But Terry, going back to your earlier comment about an engine running too > > cool, is it possible to put a point on what too cool is? With the thermo > > fans and switch I have my engine very rarely gets above 85C and if > cruising > > on no load it gets down to the start of the T sometimes.. too cold? > > > > cheers, > > zac > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: Terry Rudd <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]> > > Sent: Thursday, January 31, 2002 10:54 PM > > Subject: RE: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > > > > > Mick, > > > > > > Working out how your engine is running cool whilst on the move gets a > bit > > > tricky now. Logically to me you have to have either water circulating > > > through the radiator with the thermostat shut somehow - the heat has to > be > > > exchanged into the atmosphere somehow especially as it warms up when > > you're > > > stopped i.e. no airflow. > > > > > > Have you got a heater fitted? > > > How are the bypass hoses connected or are they blocked off which is the > > > normal thing with weber manifolds? > > > > > > It doesn't make a lot of sense to me and I'm not too sure what we do > from > > > this point, as you know my rad is very similar to yours and i've never > > > experienced anything like this except when a thermostat has jammed open. > > I'd > > > carefully crack the cap when the engine is running and have a look see > > > what's going on inside the radiator, it's very evident if water is > > > circulating when the thermostat should be shut. For info 88 degrees on a > > > stock gauge is towards the end of the M start of the P region, stock 82 > > > degrees is just to the left of the E. What about pressure? > > none/some/normal? > > > > > > This post is a bit like yours too, more questions than answers - the way > > it > > > goes when trouble shooting I spose. > > > > > > regards > > > Terry > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > [mailto:[EMAIL PROTECTED]]On Behalf Of mick ralph > > > Sent: Wednesday, 30 January 2002 11:21 PM > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED] > > > Subject: Re: Radiators/UNDERheating// 2 > > > > > > > > > Hi Terry > > > Good to hear you had a decent break over xmas.. And glad to see you back > > and > > > active here..hehe I have some more information about this thread.. I > > checked > > > the thermostat today and sure enough it isn't fully closing. I had > another > > > one here the same so i tested it and it was fine so I chucked it in. I > > also > > > set the Webers up a bit better,,, Then go for a run on the motorway and > > sure > > > enough the temp DIDN"T go up..just stayed on the stop ie 0 ... Come off > > the > > > motorway and sit at traffic lights and straight away the temp starts to > go > > > up and sits steady at "E",, As soon as i go back on the motorway the > temp > > > drops down to zero again. So I get off the motorway and by the time I'm > in > > > my driveway the gauge is up to "E" again.. > > > So > > > 1. The thermostat is tested and works @ 88 degrees. > > > 2. The gauge seems to be ok > > > 3 The engine feels a bit different ie down on power and unhappy > > > 4. The engine is hot to the touch after such thrashing but the radiator > is > > > just warm > > > I can see how a thermostat would cop a hiding in these circs and the one > i > > > tossed is less than 12mths old. > > > Should i just try a test with half the radiator blocked off? Not my > > > preferred option but easy to test.. Or remove the fan blades (tempting > but > > > harder) > > > If the temp became more 'normal' you would have to say that its 'over > > > radiatored' wouldn't u? > > > The big question is what effect is this gonna have in a sprint situation > > > where often getting enough heat into engines, brakes and tyres is the > > major > > > problem? > > > Sorry for all the questions and thanks in advance. > > > cheers > > > Mick > > > > > > www.datsun1600.freeservers.com > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > --membersozdat------------------------------------------------------- OZDAT Mailing List Please Note:- Send (un)subscribe requests to [EMAIL PROTECTED] Send submissions to [EMAIL PROTECTED] No unauthorised redistribution of this email http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/index.htm http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/listindex.html http://www.mail-archive.com/[email protected]/ ---------------------------------------------------------------------
