Thanks for the info Mal
I can add that the 1971 Datsun 1600SSS head still had "219" cast in it,
where the "A87" casting would be.
The 610 was rallied with 4 wheel disc brakes, "works CR 5 speed and 4.6
LSD. I cant remember the engine specs for the works supported rally 610,
but I think they were not EFI. that came with the 710 ("Violet") in about
1974/5.
The 610 came here in late 72 and the 610SSS changed here in late 73/early 74
when it went from 4 speed to 5 speed and from 13 inch to 14 inch rims. I
can see how the early 610's carried over a lot of 510 parts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "maldat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
Sent: Monday, 21 October 2002 16:29 PM
Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> Please People I hear this a lot on the Bluebirds list as well
>
> Datsun 510SSS only had the 219 head in 1968..
> This is very easy backed up,
> 1st :Read the parts book (Japanese and export)
> 2nd : I know a guy who brought a 1969 510SSS new in 1969,,A87 head ,and he
> still owens the car to day,Purley 110% mint car(plastic on door
panels)..In
> fact two 1969 510SSS are in NZ and I've seen both,Both 1 owner and not for
> sale.
>
> The first 610 seams to be well before we got them,1970ish in Japan Hence
the
> L18SSS in a H510 coupe 1970,Hence also why the sumps fit so do a few
> parts,front and rear end,motor box diff,all the brakes and o look a
booster
> the same as Japanse 510SSS,Dash even bolts in a 510.
> We only got them in 1972,,then in 1973 the car got a face lift and if you
> bolt a 1973-78 L8SSS the sump is hitting the 510 crossmember.
> I have never bothered to look it up in the 610 parts book,the cross member
> may be different as well on the 1973 model...
>
> Also I think the 610 from 1970-73 was used as rally/race cars(factory
> ones)but in 1974 they used the 710SSS coupe
>
> Malcolm
> (from what I have read,I maybe well off line,,My thoughts)
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> Sent: Monday, October 21, 2002 12:24 AM
> Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
>
>
> > Mal
> >
> > Yes it's an A87 head with the numbers still fully there, although just
> under
> > the casting.
> >
> > Why do the early L18SSS sumps fit into a 1600? What change occurred
after
> > 1973 to require the sump swap?
> >
> > Incidentally, today I was removing an A87 head from another tired L18 I
> > pulled from a '73 L18SSS a couple of years ago. As it had a single carb
> > engine and no "219" cast in it, I had assumed it was a stock
replacement
> > and the original SSS engine was long gone. I was pleased to discover it
is
> a
> > genuine L18SSS head with 35mm inlet ports and 44mm inlet valves.
> >
> > I was planning to scrap the block, but after this discovery I will
rebuild
> > it. The block for this engine is a Japanese L18W with the oil filter at
> > right angles to the normal position - pointing upward. Anyone know when
> > this change came in? and what it may have come from?
> >
> > ----- Original Message -----
> > From: "maldat" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > Sent: Sunday, 20 October 2002 16:25 PM
> > Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> >
> >
> > > If it is 1973 it will fit 100% as is into a 510.
> > > It will have the right sump.
> > > A87 head with the numbers half planned off?
> > >
> > > Malcolm
> > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > From: "Richard Clough" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > Sent: Saturday, October 19, 2002 10:57 AM
> > > Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> > >
> > >
> > > > I am also looking hard at rust repairs - on a 180BSSS.
> > > >
> > > > I picked up this 1973 (twin carbed, big port/valve, high comp.)
> 180BSSS
> > > last
> > > > week as a "basket case" just out of reg last week, purely for the
> > > original
> > > > 1973 SSS engine in it, the new battery and tyres fitted to it. I
> looked
> > at
> > > > the car 3 months ago when the elderly owner's daughter had a new
> battery
> > > and
> > > > tyres fitted to sell it, but the price was a bit steep for the rust
in
> > the
> > > > body. It didn't sell and the reg ran out so I grabbed it then for a
> > > quarter
> > > > of the original price. I planned to pull the engine, which runs
> > > perfectly,
> > > > (genuine one granny owner, 188 thou. kms) keep the battery and
tyres
> > (now
> > > > on my son's fiance's 1600 Auto), and take the rest to the recyclers.
> > > >
> > > > BUT: The car runs like a new one and the body is actually very good
> > apart
> > > > from the roof area. Seat trim is a bit down after 30 years use, but
> its
> > > > dead original, everything works, matching numbers etc.
> > > >
> > > > It had a, 1973 style, black vynal roof, and is rusted through, all
> > around
> > > > the edge of the vynal. The metal is perfect underneath the vynal.
> Below
> > > the
> > > > "waist" it only has slight rust in one lower rear guard.
> > > >
> > > > To restore it, I would have to replace all metal for about 20mm
around
> > the
> > > > edge of both front and rear windscreens, including door pillars,
down
> to
> > > the
> > > > waist line. All tricky compound curves.
> > > >
> > > > Alternatively, I am strongly considering turning it into a soft top,
> > which
> > > I
> > > > have to say is very tempting, given it has only two frameless doors
> and
> > I
> > > > have a roll cage in the shed to fit it..
> > > >
> > > > Anyone done or seen a soft top L18SSS coupe? If so what floor
> > > strengthening
> > > > was necessary and how was a soft top fitted?
> > > >
> > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > From: "Zac Campbell" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > Sent: Thursday, 17 October 2002 22:53 PM
> > > > Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> > > >
> > > >
> > > > > sounds like a fair bit of work for something that in the end is a
> bit
> > > > crude.
> > > > > I'd rather do it properly or with as much metal as practical!
> > > > >
> > > > > zac
> > > > >
> > > > > ----- Original Message -----
> > > > > From: "james wade" <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > To: <[EMAIL PROTECTED]>
> > > > > Sent: Thursday, October 17, 2002 9:01 PM
> > > > > Subject: RE: Rust repair / book
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > > > Ok yep I get you. Sounds pretty foolproof to me once you got the
> > > > > > profiles right. Im not sure about your car (I know it's a zed I
> > forgot
> > > > > > the model forgive me), but I think it would be fairly hard
getting
> > the
> > > > > > profile for that bit in the door that has a indent. Still,
sounds
> > > pretty
> > > > > > good for bits of the door down towards the bottom.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > This should work for other bits of the body shouldn't it?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -JAmes
> > > > > >
> > > > > > -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > > [mailto:membersozdat_owner@;datascribe.com.au] On Behalf Of Bob
> > > > > > Sent: Thursday, 17 October 2002 8:54 PM
> > > > > > To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > > Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Hello james,
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Yeah, thats what I was thinking - but I have to reiterate - I
dont
> > > > > > know squat about rust repair. I figure that it cant be too hard
> > > > > > though, and I havent stuffed too many things up yet. The hardest
> > part
> > > > > > would probably be making up the panels to have the same profile
as
> > > > > > whatever you were replacing. I wasnt going to just bog it up on
> the
> > > > > > outside either, I was going to use a second piece of metal, so
you
> > > > > > should only have to fill arround the edges.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > Thursday, October 17, 2002, 9:05:28 PM, you wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> Ok so you sorta bond the big piece to the inside of the
door,
> > then
> > > > > > bog
> > > > > > jw> up the outside so it's looks right? Am I following?
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> -James
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > jw> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > > jw> [mailto:membersozdat_owner@;datascribe.com.au] On Behalf Of
Bob
> > > > > > jw> Sent: Thursday, 17 October 2002 8:24 PM
> > > > > > jw> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > > jw> Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> I am an absolute nobody when it comes to panel repair - but
I
> > was
> > > > > > just
> > > > > > jw> going to bend up some steel into the correct shape to
replace
> > what
> > > I
> > > > > > jw> cut out, have a piece the same profile but a bit bigger to
fit
> > > > > > behind
> > > > > > jw> it - like this:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> ----- ------- ------
> > > > > > jw> -------------
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> So the bigger bit (on the bottom was bonded both to the door
> and
> > > the
> > > > > > jw> original section.
> > > > > > jw> Then I was going to rust proof the hell out of the inside of
> the
> > > > > > door,
> > > > > > jw> and prep and paint the outside.
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw> Thursday, October 17, 2002, 5:24:36 PM, you wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw>> Can you explain the concept of bonding in panels and what
> not?
> > > > > > jw>> -james
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw>> -----Original Message-----
> > > > > > jw>> From: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > > jw>> [mailto:membersozdat_owner@;datascribe.com.au] On Behalf Of
> Bob
> > > > > > jw>> Sent: Thursday, 17 October 2002 10:59 AM
> > > > > > jw>> To: [EMAIL PROTECTED]
> > > > > > jw>> Subject: Re: Rust repair / book
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw>> Funnily enough, I want to do some cutting in the bottom of
> > doors
> > > > > > etc
> > > > > > jw>> over christmas as well. After a question I asked about
rusted
> > > > > > jw> chassis
> > > > > > jw>> rails a while back, I was thinking about cutting the rusted
> > parts
> > > > > > jw> out,
> > > > > > jw>> and bonding repair sections in - I dont know how to weld,
but
> > > > > > jw> glueing
> > > > > > jw>> i can do, and if it is good enough for Lotus, its good
enough
> > for
> > > > > > me
> > > > > > jw>> :)
> > > > > >
> > > > > > jw>> Thursday, October 17, 2002, 11:11:31 AM, you wrote:
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ZC>>> Hi Guys, im finally back home and keen to start some rust
> > repair
> > > > > > on
> > > > > > jw>> my datto!
> > > > > > ZC>>> I've never done it before but am keen to learn so thoght I
> > would
> > > > > > jw>> start with a book. Local automotive book store has a couple
> of
> > > > > > books
> > > > > > jw> but
> > > > > > jw>> I was wondering if the list has any recommendations? The
> > > > > > ZC>>> Haynes one is looking best so far..
> > > > > > ZC>>> I don't really have to do any panel beating, just a fair
bit
> > of
> > > > > > jw> rust
> > > > > > jw>> repair (welding in new sections, etc). I'd prefer some
photos
> > > (for
> > > > > > jw>> dummies!).
> > > > > >
> > > > > > ZC>>> cheers list!
> > > > > > ZC>>> Zac
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > > --
> > > > > > Best regards,
> > > > > > Bob mailto:rcs07@;uow.edu.au
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > > >
> > > > >
> > > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
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