Old cars don't die they just go to Cairo and become taxis. In Egypt no car
could possible be too old or unreliable to be used as a taxi in Cairo. We
saw 1958 Fiat 1100s, 1961 Fiat 1500s Fiat 124 and 125s, Peugeot 504, Renault
12, Datsun 120Y with the newest being a 1983 Nissan Pulsar.

In Cairo all taxis are painted black with white lower front and rear guards.
Other provinces have different colours on their guards. All taxis are
seriously bumped and scratched from their "I shall never yield" attitude. To
be a taxi driver you need only have a four door vehicle (preferably
predented) paint it black and white (yes most do it at home with a brush)
and the most important item is a taxi meter. Of the 16 taxis used not one
had a working meter or speedo. Knowing how to drive or where anything is
located is not a prerequisite to driving a taxi.

There is no set fee structure in a taxi. The passenger pays what he feels
the ride is worth. Locals told us that a trip downtown is worth no more than
10 pounds. So we always jumped in a cab advised our destination and then
paid the fare that we believed was right. This never resulted in a problem
unless you have more than two people in the cab when they would expect a
higher payment.

Should you wish to bargain a price upfront this immediately alerts the
driver that you do not know what a fair fare is and prices start at up to
100 time the fee paid by a local or 10 times that of a tourist. Even when a
fare is agreed upon the driver will continue to bargain and renegotiate his
fare up from the price agreed until your ride is finished. This makes for a
most unpleasant trip through one of the most crowded cities in the world.
Our mind settled on a fare of 10 pounds for over 20 minutes and 5 pounds for
under 20 minutes. This made all our drivers very happy and no arguments were
entered into.

The driving style is more art than rational. Whilst lanes are clearly marked
on the road they certainly bear no relationship to where cars drive or how
many cars can travel abreast on the roads. Pedestrian crossings are a
further decoration on the roads in Cairo. Crossing the road is something
infrequently done by pedestrians in Cairo and is reminiscent of the 80s game
of Frogger where a complex sequence of forward and reverse motions must be
engaged to safely cross a three lane road with five cars abreast.

Pedestrian refuge islands are well named in Cairo. Where some of the more
timid pedestrians have set up home and raised families in waiting for a
driver to stop and allow them to cross the road.

Traffic lights are simply not used, some are constantly flashing amber
whilst other work but are simply not obeyed by anyone. It is dangerous to
believe that a green light is a sign of a clear road. Cars do not even
hesitate for a red light but career through at break neck speed. Only Police
signals are obeyed and even then reluctantly. On many occasions we see
Policemen being literally pushed by cars who are in a hurry and prod the
policeman with the intimidating use of a horn or by pushing him physically
with the front of a taxi.

The use of a horn is more an auditory expression of your mood and feelings
than anything else. It is not only used as a warning or to say hello or
goodbye but simply to let people know that your are in their suburb or in a
neighbouring suburb, or to tell them you are on their side of the road or on
the opposite side and often just checked randomly to see if it still
operates.

Taxi Drivers would be the richest people in Egypt if they charged by the
beep rather than bargaining with tourists. Our tour guide tells us that he
one day took a cab to work as he does not believe it is safe to drive on
Cairo roads with a horn that does not work. This is quite believable as
Cairo drivers use a system of Braille driving and their sense of hearing to
place their car accurately into the Cairo traffic.

Greater Cairo has a population of over 20 million and whilst traffic is
thick it is never stopped. In a three lane road there may be 4 cars across
ahead, but this doesn't concern the taxi driver. A few carefully placed
beeps of the horn and the driver careers his scrap metal into a space which
previously did not exist.

It is rare to see any car in Cairo without at least 7 separate dents on each
body panel. The word Road Worthy has no Egyptian equivalent. Cars with
missing headlights, dented body work, even missing windows are a common
sight. During our tour we entered many a taxi that had no window winders or
door trims. A few had no internal handles and thus the door could only be
opened by reaching outside for the external handle. Every taxi had the Koran
carefully placed on the dashboard between the windscreen and the driver.

Praying is apparently more apt than any driving skill in this high risk job.
Seat belts are generally non existent in the rear and not working in the
front. Despite a law requiring the use of seat belts no-one even does the
motions of putting them on. On a few occasions when Police (on every corner)
peer into the car, the driver would pull across the remains of his seat belt
and sit on one end. It was considered most uncool to actually put it on and
use it as a seat belt. Cairo taxis are definitely to be placed alongside
bungy jumping and skydiving whilst in the land of the pyramids.

Dominic Votano
www.premierstrata.com.au
www.unitliving.info
Premier Strata
Ph 9630 7500
Fx 9630 1915


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